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> Eye Cave (Yan Jing Dong)
Fly Me to the Moon
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley, and Wang Zhiming, May 2005 |
Page Views: | 1,443 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Bob Moseley on Mar 16, 2008 |
Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
This five-pitch route ascends the buttress immediately right (downstream) of Eye Cave. It is a route to climb, not rappel, so bring walking shoes and scramble over the ridge above the top anchor to trail. DESCENT: Follow the small trail on the ridge east to the pavilion on the top of the mountain, then down through the forest to the River Cave and around the slope on old trail back to base of climb. See Eye Cave BETA PHOTO for access and route location. NOTE: Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined, but watch rope drag.
Pitch 1-5.7, 12 bolts to ledge. Metolius anchors on wall at back of ledge. 47 m.
Pitch 2-5.9, 13 bolts to exposed belay below large tree. 42 m.
Pitch 3-5.8, 7 bolts up and left to small ledge with Metolius anchors. 33 m.
Pitch 4-5.5, 2 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 23 m.
Pitch 5-5.7, 3 bolts through roof, then up and right to Metolius anchors. 20 m.
Pitch 1-5.7, 12 bolts to ledge. Metolius anchors on wall at back of ledge. 47 m.
Pitch 2-5.9, 13 bolts to exposed belay below large tree. 42 m.
Pitch 3-5.8, 7 bolts up and left to small ledge with Metolius anchors. 33 m.
Pitch 4-5.5, 2 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 23 m.
Pitch 5-5.7, 3 bolts through roof, then up and right to Metolius anchors. 20 m.
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