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Tiger Rocks
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Bush Blows Chips T 
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Fly Away 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas & Tony Yaniro, 1982
Season: Sunny
Page Views: 714
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Jan 16, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

The business for this route shows up pretty quick. The starting corner is overhanging and quickly goes from thin, to wide to real wide. The pic gives you more beta than you will probably need. Would get 3 stars, but the cool climbing is just too short, even though the climb is pretty long.


Location 

Can't miss it if you get to Tiger Rocks. It has a small bush at the base and is a nice slice of orange rock capped by a big half chimney. This route is about 50ft right of the obvious and stunning Quasar. Descend to climbers right.


Protection 

Small and medium cams, and maybe 1 at 4". The upper chimney stuff is low angle and wide. No pro is really needed, but if you have some random 13" piece, you might want to bring it. Belay on top by laying in the chimney. Maybe a 2-3" cam also.



Photos of Fly Away Slideshow Add Photo
Russ BITD pic, note EB's, fright wig, no harness, and tube socks.  Photos probably by Mari Gingery
Russ BITD pic, note EB's, fright wig, no harness, ...
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Comments on Fly Away Add Comment
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By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Mar 2, 2010

From my last solid fist jam I managed to reach up high and place a #4 and then lieback to the horn - very burly, but it seemed easier than doing the funky OW inversion move depicted in Russ's photo.

Sweet climb, probably my favorite we did that day. The chimney might be easy, but you feel exposed as it widens near the top. Fun climbing all the way.

By Roger Linfield
Sep 22, 2010

Dennis Yates and I climbed this route in November, 1986. He suggested the name First Inversion, as we thought ours might be the first ascent. We were pretty excited about the fun crux sequence.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Sep 22, 2010

Roger:
You guys probably did the 3rd ascent.... it does not get done much! Can't remember who put it up or when. The pics above were EB time, so before Fires hit the scene. Maybe '81 or '82? Good route though, and for sure on the recommended list if you are out there in the area.

By Richard Shore
Jan 30, 2013

My first time doing an OW inversion move, and probably my last.

If you're wondering "should I lieback, or go upside down?" - consider my epic. I slotted my left foot like a nut in the crack above the lip, and was stuck hanging upside down solely by my left foot/ankle for nearly 10 min. I managed to free myself by lassoing the horn above with a 4' sling and pulling myself to freedom. A #5 camalot would also save you from this fate.