Fluff Boy 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.13b/c [details] |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Ryan Sappenfield |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001 |
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Description No, this route isn't chipped, but in the interest of fairness I will include it within the spectrum of dubious first ascent tactics lest I be further accused of hypocrisy. There are three holds on this route that I re-inforced with sika to keep them from falling off. If you want to go pry them off and return the route to its glue-free state, that's fine by me. Honest. Fluff Boy climbs directly out the center of the Sno-Cone cave and features a hard boulder problem at the start (now avoided by going right and grabbing the footholds) and a cruxy lip encounter. Fortunately, the holds are biggest where the route is steepest, making it much more do-able than it looks from below.
Protection 10-12 quickdraws.
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Nov 6, 2001
| Wow, it looks impossible yet it's only 5.13b?? I'll be right on it! NOT! ;-) |
By Anonymous Coward May 4, 2002
| As of this last summer this thing is a 15 foot wide chalk streak, speckled with shiny black grease dots. I'm sure it was gorgeous at the time of the first ascent. |
By Adam Holmes Sep 16, 2002 rating: 5.13b
| This weekend I replaced the long velcro sling, which I assume must have been there for more than a few years, maybe since it's inception. It's about the same length and has velcro on it just like the old sling. I replaced the draw after hearing my friend describe falling and ripping through an old Petzl draw on Zulu. If that happened on Fluff Boy you would crater. |
By Anonymous Coward Mar 14, 2004
| Matt has one of the best eyes for lines I've ever seen. |
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