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The Sno-Cone Cave
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Air Patrol S 
Brenna S 
Doctor's Orders S 
Dry Doctor (aka Buzzworm) S 
Duck A Day S 
Durban Poison S 
Fluff Boy S 
Lever Action (not Downdraft) S 
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No Risk No Fin S 
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Wedding Streak S 
Winter's End S 

Fluff Boy 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Ryan Sappenfield
Page Views: 1,616
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

No, this route isn't chipped, but in the interest of fairness I will include it within the spectrum of dubious first ascent tactics lest I be further accused of hypocrisy. There are three holds on this route that I re-inforced with sika to keep them from falling off. If you want to go pry them off and return the route to its glue-free state, that's fine by me. Honest.

Fluff Boy climbs directly out the center of the Sno-Cone cave and features a hard boulder problem at the start (now avoided by going right and grabbing the footholds) and a cruxy lip encounter. Fortunately, the holds are biggest where the route is steepest, making it much more do-able than it looks from below.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws.


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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2001

Wow, it looks impossible yet it's only 5.13b?? I'll be right on it! NOT! ;-)
By Anonymous Coward
May 4, 2002

As of this last summer this thing is a 15 foot wide chalk streak, speckled with shiny black grease dots. I'm sure it was gorgeous at the time of the first ascent.
By Adam Holmes
Sep 16, 2002
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This weekend I replaced the long velcro sling, which I assume must have been there for more than a few years, maybe since it's inception. It's about the same length and has velcro on it just like the old sling. I replaced the draw after hearing my friend describe falling and ripping through an old Petzl draw on Zulu. If that happened on Fluff Boy you would crater.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 14, 2004

Matt has one of the best eyes for lines I've ever seen.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dec 12, 2013

Bobbi Bensman made the first female ascent in July 1994, making her the third American woman to redpoint 5.13c.