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BETA PHOTO: "Fluff Boy".
Photo by Blitzo.
This route is located on the far left side of the Short Wall between Double Trouble
(5.10a) and Belay Girl
(5.10c). Climb up an easy crack system Mad Race
(5.4) for about twenty feet and then cut right via a right-slanting flake system (pro to 3"). The rock is somewhat dubious so load up on gear, and then smear your way up past two bolts to the top (it's easier to cut left for a move or two and then back right above the last bolt). Bolted anchor on top and easy downclimb via several options.
This climb is a testament not only to the powers of cleaning via traffic, as when this route was first done it was terribly grainy, but also to Todd's vision to see a fun route despite all of the chossy rock. One star out of five.
pro to 3", 2 bolts (3/8", 5/16"), bolted anchor (3/8")
Sep 8, 2006
Another Lame-o Gordo route!