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Egg, The 
Flower Power 
Glas Roof 
Man with the Black Lunettes, The 
Pirelli 
Purple Flowers (Les Fleurs Pourpes) 

Flower Power 

Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Fred
Page Views: 804
Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 4, 2009

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Timmy F. going to the hueco before the flying ninj...
  • Guided tour access only
  • East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only
  • Some areas require a guide.

  • Description 

    If you are strong enough this could be an easy tick or still impossible. It all depends on how the flying ninja kick at the end goes for you, easy for some, impossible for others, though there is alternate beta which makes the problem longer.

    Start on a big tounge at the right end of the roof. Work your way left on sequency pockets untill you make a slap for a sloping bump on a vertical section of rock. Get a right toe hook to bump your right hand into a closer pocket. Then walk your feet through to a heal hook just below your left hand and pull up onto an alcove with an 8 finger fin that sticks down as an undercling. Walk your feet into the alcove in a kind of stem and match hands to go out left and out the roof to a better hold the a good right in opposition. Next reach up right into a scoop to a honeycomb crimp with a thumb catch then left to a fin that is a side pull/undercling. Get a big drop knee and make a long pull to a hueco, as you work further around the side it gets better. Now for the fun bit, cut your feet but don't try to check the swing, instead kick out for the boulder behind and to the right of you. Get your feet to stick, match the hueco and shoulder your way over to the vertical face and top out.


    Location 

    Work under the left side of the German Photo Route boulder then around the back past The Egg. Follow a ramp up to the right from behind The Egg onto some open rock. Head towards East Mt and you should run into the head height roof or it will be off to your right a bit.


    Protection 

    Pads and spotter, for the most part you are pretty low on this problem but the landing is a slab which in one spot opens up into a pit so you want a spotter down there. No spotter at the end though as there is a good chance they will get kicked resulting in the dreaded DAB.



    Comments on Flower Power Add Comment
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    By tcamillieri
    From: Denver
    Jan 19, 2011

    Alternative Beta:
    Start on the tongue. Go left, right, left through the pockets keeping a heel-toe cam in the tongue the whole time. Slap RIGHT hand to the "sloper-bump" and bump up to a good right hand sidepull. Kneebar with the right and bring your left hand up to an arching crimp. Bring your left foot up to a really good crimp and heel hook with the right on the flat hold. Left foot through to toehook to get the bicycle and then right hand to a slopey pinch by your heel. Fall in with the left hand to the good crimp you had previously used for your left foot (to get the right heel) cut feet and spin in a 180 and match on the jug that you just had your right heel on and finish as per standard beta.