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The Motherlode
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
40 OZ of Justice 
8 Ball 
Ball Scratcher 
Breathe Right 
Buff the Wood 
Burlier's Bane 
Chronic, The 
Crime Time 
False Positive 
Flour Power 
Flux Capacitor 
Golden Touch 
Heart Shape Box 
High Hard One (aka Subman), The 
Hot For Teacher 
Injured Reserve 
Kick Me In The Jimmie 
Leave it to Beavis 
Low Easy One, The 
Madness, The 
One-Eyed Willy Up the Back 
Pushing Up Daisies 
Reacharound, The 
Rocket Dog 
Sauce, The 
Skin Boat 
Stabbed in the Back 
Swahili Slang 
Team Wilson 
Trad Sucker 
Transworld Depravity 
Trust in Jesus 
Tuna Town 
Verdict, The 
White Man's Overbite 
Unsorted Routes:

Flour Power 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Chris Martin - 1997
Page Views: 1,053
Submitted By: yevquest on Nov 23, 2010
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Flour Power is one of the two classic 13bs (BOHICA being the other one) that climb partway out the super steep Madness Cave. A slightly odd start (make sure your belayer is paying attention, a fall could lead to a swing into a boulder) leads to sweet, steep jug climbing There are some slopers here and there but overall nothing is too bad. This leads to a nice sit down rest at the base of the big roof. If the route ended here it would be a 5 star 12a but there's still so much to go.

Once recovered, launch out the 40 degree roof on a variety of holds, heavy on open handed mini jugs. None of the clips are too bad but there are some smaller holds in between them. The goal of this section is to get through 40 feet of continuous climbing to a fantastic rest on jugs and hand jams. From the rest a cool bouldery section leads right and up, passing the last bolt (many people skip) to the anchor clipping jug.


Third route from the left in the Madness Cave starting under a roof on a pointy boulder.


Bolts and Fixed Draws

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