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Flounder 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 5, 2005

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BETA PHOTO

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

On the East Face of the Biship, near the right-hand edge is a crack system starting from atop a large boulder at the base. This is visible as route #4 in the attached picture, not #5 as mis-stated in the text of the photo. (#5 is grouper- not that there is no Route #4 listed or pictured)

The route climbs up and right in a flaring wide crack for a few meters, then cuts sharply up and left out of a bulge/small roof formed by a huge hanging flake. This is done on a finger and hand crack. This short section is the crux, particularly getting up into the splitter hand crack above. There is good gear there, which is good, because I saw that climb spit off a few 5.11 leaders (who had just on-sighted a 5.11b). Continue climbing on good moves and good gear to a belay stance and anchor.

If desired, continue climbing the OW 2nd pitch to the top of the rock. I can not further elaborate on that since I did not do it, but am hoping that someone will submit a 2nd pitch description as a "correction" to replace this paragraph.

The center anchor needs some old crap removed and a second new piece installed, but I did not have enough to finish the job. The upper left bolt also needs to be replaced someday... it's pretty bad and getting worse.

Protection 

For the first pitch (crux, 5.10c), a single set of nuts and a single set of cams to 3inches. A larger cam can be placed up top for the faint of heart. There is an anchor on 2 bolts (1 good, 1 bad) that can serve as a rap or belay to the right of the ledge.The second pitch is WIDE WIDE (5.9), and you can take up whatever looks like it may fit.


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