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 ADVANCED
Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cheval 
B-minor Mass 
Disinclination 
Flotsam and Jetsam 
Great Mass in C Minor 
Green Ledges 
In the Heat of the Sun 
LadyFingers 
Manhandler 
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle 
No Stranger to the Fist 
Obduracy 
Pigeon Roof 
Power of a Good Haircut 
Rainman 
Saturday Forever 

Flotsam and Jetsam 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 346
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 24, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Roof (9), No Stranger to the Fist (10), and...

Description 

Flotsam and Jetsam are two climbs on the east face of the Minor Mass of the Doorway Rocks. They can be easily located by finding the large pine tree that lays across the chimney below Pigeon Roof.

The right variation of the route is the longer of the two. Make your way up to the "Saddle". From the saddle climb around so that you're above the fallen tree at the bottom of an inside corner about 10 feet above the "Saddle". Climb up the inside corner on easy holds to the south face of a small tower. Use ledges to gain the top of the tower.

The left variation climbs up the chimney that contains the fallen tree. This variation is the more awkward variation and is less recommended than the right variation.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Flotsam and Jetsam Slideshow Add Photo
The start. Duck around the tree and follow the cracks to the top.
BETA PHOTO: The start. Duck around the tree and follow the cra...
Comments on Flotsam and Jetsam Add Comment
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By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Nov 10, 2002

My buddy and I climbed this today and he did his first-ever lead on it. The line up the dihedral is challenging but straightforward. The top section is nice and exposed, so don't stop once you finish the dihedral. Go all the way to the top of the pinnacle!

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 17, 2003

I soloed this route on 03/15/03.very nice route would defineately make a good beginner lead. the finish is quite exposed and nice as well.Benjamin Sanders

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 6, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

Another nice multi-pitch for beginning leaders is to ascend B-Minor Mass and then continue on this climb. I think the inside corner is the better route and it's more like a 5.5.

By Tradoholic
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c

There is a very large loose block toward the top of this to the right of the exit crack. It looked like I could pull it right off!