Flotsam & Jetsam 5.12a
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Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and don't attempt to drive through the private ranch.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start on platform, can clip first bolt from ground. Tricky pumpy start leads to a great rest around the middle of the route. Just when you think you have the route sent, the chalk dies out and you hit the crux coming to the chains.
Location Between Hippogriff and Shipwrecked
Protection 9 Bolts + Anchors
| Comments on Flotsam & Jetsam |
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 12, 2007
| The platform is gone and the first bolt is a couple of moves up now. A stick could be helpful. |
By Anthony Stout
Administrator
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 15, 2007
| As stated above, where there used to be a large platform, there is now just dirt. I found using a stick clip comforting as it's a difficult first clip and some of the lower foot holds were flexing on me. Note that you used to be able to reach up and clip the first bolt from the "ground".... Or a platform that was there in the past. |
By GummyBears
Mar 3, 2009
rating: 5.11d PG13
| It seems the platform is back. This is a great route that I feel is more 11d. It is not as pumpy as Rumple and does not have a dyno as in Technowitch which are listed as 12a. Still, it rivals all other 11's on the Tower and is a shame it does not see more traffic. |
By Dave Wachter
Jan 19, 2010
| Agree with Gummy. Full value 11d (or call it 12a), a route not to be missed when you're working your way up the grades at the Tower. |
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 22, 2010
| Added a bolt to the start today as the holds you use to reach the first clip are not the most sound. |
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jun 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| Thanks for the route maintenance Eric. |
By jbak
Jul 11, 2010
| Slightly weak 3 stars...good movement and decent pump. Too bad the rests are a bit too good for real continuity. |
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 26, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| I'm not sure why folks are not giving this more stars. My partners and I (4 of us) thought that this was the best 12a that we climbed while visiting (the other 12a's we did were Rumple, Techno, and Servants of the Secret...). The reason I liked it so much was that it had some great technical climbing down low combined with more standard Tower enduro pocket pulling up high; the split styles of climbing really enhanced the quality of the route IMHO. |
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