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Floppy Boot Stamp 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 195'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Season: spring/ fall
Page Views: 447
Submitted By: Doug Redosh on Apr 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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The second pitch goes up the cracks on the right.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ignore the V0- in the rating. It is a typo that I could not remove.

The crux is the exposed upper headwall. There are several loose blocks, but otherwise it is a good adventure for the 5.8 trad leader.

P1. Climb the small crack for 15', traverse right on small ledge, then go up a crack system to 2 bolt anchor (55').

P2. Go up the slot above the anchors, trending left to avoid loosely attached block. Continue up easy rock for 40 feet, then attack the headwall via hand and finger cracks. Avoid a loosely attached block at the top (140').

Descent: we walked 100' West to the anchors atop Epidote.


Location 

It is 20' right of large, rightfacing dihedral at the right end of crag, and just right of Down to the Wire, which has a bolt about 30' up.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Floppy Boot Stamp Slideshow Add Photo
From the base with Brian at the 1st belay.  P2 can be started straight above the 1st belay.
From the base with Brian at the 1st belay. P2 can...
Brian approaching the top shortly after bumping the blocks and fearing missiles hitting US 6 below.
Brian approaching the top shortly after bumping th...
It looks like most people ascend the crack to the right of the rope.  Darren Mabe shows the climb further to the right.
It looks like most people ascend the crack to the ...
Comments on Floppy Boot Stamp Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Apr 26, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Generally nice climbing even though a bit dirty. As Doug mentioned, beware of a couple loose blocks on P2. One is to the left about 15 ft up from the belay ledge atop P1 and the other is about 12 ft from the top of P2 right in the route line. Both are 20-30 lb and would probably land on US 6 below (so we didn't dare clean them). We were also wary of a refrigerator-sized block about 10 ft directly above the P1 belay ledge that has cracks on both sides and no bottom support, and avoided using the cracks on either side of it.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 26, 2010

Whoever put this up has great taste in music. Captain Beefheart is the man.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 5, 2010

This climb is probably better if you lower off after P1. The 2nd pitch has some definite scruff. There are a number of holds that shift, some blocks that move if you accidentally bump it with a knee, and pleasant bushes to scratch you up.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Oct 2, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I did this route today, climbing by the picture posted on here. In the Mabe guide the pitch is further to the right. What I did today seemed about 5.8- in difficulty and there was a crack for protection.