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Routes in Main Moonstone
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36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Central Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Egg Shells T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jambalaya T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wind Walker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bob Branscomb, Ed DeLong 2007/08 |
| Page Views: | 1,809 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | bob branscomb on Feb 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
Involves 2-60m pitches. 60m ropes are required. The crux of the first pitch is on the first steep section: thin face and smearing but very well protected. At the top of this first section, move right into a broad trough (two single runners useful) and up to the anchor.
The original second pitch goes up the deep trough above. This is about 5.8 and is good.
A more aesthetic and challenging second pitch, completed in Spr 2008, is to go to the first bolt on the second pitch, then friction up and left into the very shallow, steep looking trough out there. Climb through two or three 10a sections of smearing and thin face to the anchor. This pitch, having a separate history and psyche, is called The Shape of Our Deformity and is rated 10a.
The combination of the first pitch of Floating World (10b) and the Shape of Our Deformity (10a) makes for an outstanding climb and the hardest on the Moonstone to this date.
The original second pitch goes up the deep trough above. This is about 5.8 and is good.
A more aesthetic and challenging second pitch, completed in Spr 2008, is to go to the first bolt on the second pitch, then friction up and left into the very shallow, steep looking trough out there. Climb through two or three 10a sections of smearing and thin face to the anchor. This pitch, having a separate history and psyche, is called The Shape of Our Deformity and is rated 10a.
The combination of the first pitch of Floating World (10b) and the Shape of Our Deformity (10a) makes for an outstanding climb and the hardest on the Moonstone to this date.
Location
As you arrive at Moonstone, there is an open area to the right. A beautiful, steeper wall is defined between a long left facing corner on the right edge (Where Across the Globe begins) and a long right leaning crack system on it's left.
Park and walk up to the base (30 secs) of the steep lower part of this wall, capped by a long narrow roof. Floating World starts in some aspens near the right end of this wall. Many bolts leading straight up the face define the start of the route.
Park and walk up to the base (30 secs) of the steep lower part of this wall, capped by a long narrow roof. Floating World starts in some aspens near the right end of this wall. Many bolts leading straight up the face define the start of the route.
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