Floater aka Center Route V5
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Going for the knob.
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Description This is the obvious line up the middle of the main boulder's south face. Get to the sloper and then up to a knob to top out. Landing is good.
Protection None.
On the knob.
| Jerad on Floater.
| BETA PHOTO: Toping out.
| Sidepull.
| Low on the route.
| Jake Carroll on the Floater, V5.
| Floatage.
| Floater.
| Photo by Lordscience.
| On the sloping rail -beta from left side start.
| Trying out Mark Tjaden's beta on the far left foot...
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| Comments on Floater aka Center Route |
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By Michael West From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 8, 2008
| Getting to the sloper is way harder for shorter people. |
By loc From: colorado springs co Jul 28, 2009
| My fav problem in this wall. |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Jul 29, 2009 rating: V5
| HAAARRRD. Took me forever to get. Cool problem though. I did the other V4s at Ute within a few days, while this took me a few months so I would say this is solid V5. |
By Bob Robinson From: Lone Tree, Colorado Oct 25, 2010 rating: V5
| This one feels stout. Are people bumping from the good ledge from "Chick Power" before heading to the sidepull, or just cranking through? |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Oct 25, 2010 rating: V5
| I've seen people bump off that hold, I don't use it. I don't think it changes the rating significantly. |
By David Hertel From: Sitka, AK Dec 27, 2010
| It seems like the consensus is to approach the sloper from the right side and sort of hook the bump with the left hand, but I found that way to be an incredible stretch I can barely make. I prefer to start with a pinch in the hueco on the left side and walk my hands across the sloping rail to grab the bloc. The only problem with this beta is the feet suck and it's hard to stay on without a toe hook. If you use this beta, be prepared to dyno to the chicken head from the bloc with low feet. |
By Keith H. North From: Englewood, CO May 24, 2011 rating: V5-6
| Got on this today, I am pretty short 5'8" with a +1 A.I. So that move to the sloper is pretty big for me, and till I dialed it was very low percentage. This took me quite some time to send even though it is definitely not my style. To me it felt more like a V6. |
By Culver From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 4, 2011
| Finally sent this a couple days ago! Probably my favorite problem in this area now that I can stick more than just the first move. |
By JasonT From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 4, 2011 rating: V4-5
| Nice job, Culver...getting strong, man!! |
By Lucas79 From: Everett, MA Jun 20, 2011 rating: V5+
| This would be a solid V5 anywhere in the country. Awesome problem, the style of it kinda reminds me of Serengeti in Bishop. |
By Zane Dordai Aug 2, 2012
| Though I never really fell in love with Ute Valley, this problem is super classic. It felt like very solid V5 from what I know. Beta spoiler alert: I used the chick, power crimp out right for my right hand to perch on a far, high, and good right foot which freed my right hand to grab the good sidepull pinch. Felt 5 to me that way. The first move, though very big, just takes some dialing in if you have trouble on big moves. |
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