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Routes in The Long Wall
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Articulated S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bombardino S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chewy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fifty Fifty S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Flight Path S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flirting with E S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gimme Some Tongue S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Going Ballistic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Maximum Overdrive S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Menace Alert S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Minimum Overdrive S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Way, Jose' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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On the Porch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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On Top of the Milky Whale S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Quarryman's Hands S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ragged Reaction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rocky Top Hilton S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seven Minutes of Heaven S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Six Dollars a.k.a. Hot and Bothered S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stone Cold Dixie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under the Milky Way S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Doug Cosby 1991 |
| Page Views: | 3,235 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Ladd Raine on Jul 31, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Description
Make a strange 1st move and crimp your way to a hand jam rest. make another equally hard deadpoint/dyno then setup for the crux, work out left on undercling deadpoint for a side pull and then make tenuous moves up the crimpy flake with the pump clock ticking. Make some final moves that go at 10+/11- but with pump feel like 5.13, grab the clipping jug way up right and clip those anchors...man that climb was hard.
The crux of this climb is very insecure and involves traversing on bad underclings with bad feet then deadpointing without letting your feet slip.
The crux of this climb is very insecure and involves traversing on bad underclings with bad feet then deadpointing without letting your feet slip.
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