Generally follows a right-facing corner.
Starts with a short hand crack that goes to a sloping ramp below the corner. Do several bolt-protected layback moves into the corner. When the good layback edges fade (at 3rd bolt), stem right onto the large knob and then move right to climb up the knobby face. At the top of the face, step back left over the top of the corner and trend up and left to the chained anchor on Robin's Ramp.
Left of Robin's Ramp, just left of obvious finger crack. Shares the same start as Hips and Valleys.
Large cam for hand crack at bottom, small wires (brass nuts useful) to protect the clip to the first bolt, at least 4 quickdraws for the 4 bolts, and some finger-to-hand-sized pieces for the top.
Stemming in the Flippo corner.
On the knob section of Flippo.
Aug 17, 2012
You bolted a route that went free last year on gear, on-sight. We didn't have the temerity to assume that it was an FA, let alone to think about adding bolts.
Aug 18, 2012
I think Jon bolted a variation to what you climbed.
Aug 20, 2012
There are bolts now inside the flare that protected with gear. Going to the arete may be a variation, but they added bolts to the start in the flare well before traversing to the arete. I understand that the gear is small, tricky and heady, but it's still there. With the knowledge that it is not an FA through the flare, I think the bolters should correct their actions. I'm not trying to be provocative or confrontational, just informative.
|By Jon Nelson|
Aug 22, 2012
Wow, great job on that lead. It looked to be much harder going straight up the corner. Of course, it is possible that someone else did your direct line, but Darryl, the person who generally gets notified when a new route goes up at Index, hadn't heard about it. Why don't you give it a name and rating? Why not add the route to this site and mention that it was lead before Flippo? Ditto for any other routes you've done that aren't in Sky Valley Rock, RCNW, or some other site that publishes new routes.
The story on Flippo is that it was cleaned off several years ago by Darryl and another person and then top-roped. They didn't have the time then to bolt it. I went there with Darryl recently, recleaned it, and added bolts. I imagine that you probably wouldn't have even considered the lead if the route hadn't been cleaned off before. Cleaning at Index is hard work!
I don't recommend that anyone chops the bolts. At Index, if a route doesn't get done regularly, it gets covered in moss and dirt and the whole effort is wasted. And maybe with your line publicized, the first two bolts that it shares with Flippo will give it more traffic, which is probably what you want. Bolts have been added to routes before for that same reason.
|By geoff georges|
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 5, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I climbed this on lead knowing of the talk here. I don't know what it was like to lead this dirty, probably scary. The pictures here show a mossy corner. I placed a small cam off the big ledge, was pretty gripped and glad to find the little layback edges, clipped 1st bolt, left finger slot below corner, stemmed up, clipped 2nd bolt, pulling on crack on left face of corner, .75 at end of that, clip 3rd bolt, move onto chicken heads, 4th bolt. Then placed yellow alien above that, leftward moves tricky, scary block-is that thing solid? all easy above there. Nice route.