Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Courthouse Butte
Select Route:
A Day in Court T 
Coyote Tower T 
Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) T,S 
Justice of the Peace T 
Prosecutor, The T 
South Bowl Route (Right) T 

Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Burcham
Season: Fall, Winter & Spring
Page Views: 2,330
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 19, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Jen nearing the top of the 3rd pitch

Description 

Flip Wilson is a great mixed trad and sport route that ascends the southwestern arete of Courthouse Butte.

Pitch 1 (5.7) - Climb a corner above the start ledge which starts as unprotectable 5.4 progressing to 5.6 and a #2 camalot placement. When the corner steepens look up and right for a #3 camalot placement behind a boulder. At this point mantle out of the corner up and right then climb easy 5.5 slabs to a two bolt belay/rap station. (~100') Leave your trad gear here as it is all bolted climbing from here.

Pitch 2a (5.10c) - Start up and left past two bolts then move right into a corner. Climb up the corner past several additional bolts to a ramp which leads to the next belay ledge. About 8 clips total. (~100') From here a 200' rappel will take you back to the start ledge.

Pitch 2b - Move the belay up 15' to a belay bolt on a large ledge.

Pitch 3 (5.10a) - Fun face climbing past 12 bolts trending up and right to a two bolt rap station. (~120')

Descent - Two double rope raps down the route.


Location 

Flip Wilson ascends the Southwest Arete of Courthouse Butte. Approach as if climbing one of the "South Bowl" routes as described by Greg. Once up the initial 4th class ledges trend left to a notch which is right on the southwestern arete. If you travel through this notch it will take you to the start for the Prosecutor. Up and right from this notch is the start ledge for Flip Wilson.

Protection 

12 Draws
1 x 2 Camalot
1 x 3 Camalot
A creative climber may find placements for smaller gear on the first pitch.


Photos of Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) Slideshow Add Photo
Kev and I sharing a Flip moment...
Kev and I sharing a Flip moment...
Kyle finishing P3
Kyle finishing P3
The Flip Wilson Route goes up the arete just above Kerem's head on the left side of the south bowl.
BETA PHOTO: The Flip Wilson Route goes up the arete just above...
On one of the false summits, the view is still awesome, should've brought lunch!
On one of the false summits, the view is still awe...
the stunning view from atop Courthouse Butte
the stunning view from atop Courthouse Butte

Comments on Flip Wilson Route (aka I'll be the judge of that!) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dean Hoffman
Dec 4, 2006

Climbed this a few days ago after trudging for miles in search of a spire that seems to have vanished. Anyhow great winter route all in the sun. I agree with Will #2 and #3 are all you really need. You'd have to work to get anything else in. Belays are very comfy and the climbing, no harder than 10 but exciting none the less. Good route if you want to travel light or are short on time. 2 ropes to get off.
By Dean Hoffman
Nov 26, 2008

Just climbed this again, third time, makes for a great short day winter route, and had to upgrade it on my star rating. This climb is great, fun moves, good exposure, comfy belays and a cool summit. Really enjoyable route most definitely worth the hike, which is relatively easy and straight forward. Only down side is the two ropes, but not really a big detractor cause youre not carrying much else! Go climb it!
By mountainems
From: flagstaff, az
Nov 24, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Fun route!! Getting to it was a little vague... You need to hike over to almost the center of the bowl and that is where you will find the 4th class scramble up. From there continue to move left and up and around the arete and you will find the starting ledge. The route is just to the right of the TOP of the notch, not the bottom like I originally thought. Other than that the route is really straight forward and the belay stances are SUPER comfortable! Overall, great climb.
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 6, 2011

Really fun and interesting movement. Exploring the summit of courthouse butte is a real treat. Brought some more gear on the first pitch but didn't see any options to place it. The 2 and 3 are great though.
By Zack S.
From: Prescott, AZ
Mar 16, 2012

All around excellent route. There is a fairly good thread-through on pitch one above the #3 placement which helps to mitigate the runout. Pitch one is quite easy but a fall from the upper half of the pitch could be disasterous, so be aware. Highly recommended climb.
By Dustin Wildermuth
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Apr 18, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Good times. I placed 2 #2s, 1 #3 3 nuts and found the tread through on the first pitch. The gear is there if you look for it.
By JacobD
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 15, 2013

Did this route again yesterday and with Dustin's comments in mind found some pretty good placements on the first pitch, not at all "R" rated if you find the spots. I placed a 1,2,3 camalots, a #6 stopper, and a red alien.