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Butcher's Branch
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Flight of the Gumbie 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 5,344
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (127)
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Michael Levato on Flight of the Gumbie. Photo by J...

Description 

This climb starts on the right wall of the obvious huge left facing corner of Butcher's branch. Start up the jugs with wet feet and clip the first bolt, extend the heck out of these first couple ones! move up then right when you reach a small ledge and move out to the arete, complete the arte by using it and movingto the face around the other side, fight the pump on this sustained climb that offers no easy parts, and no rests all the way to the anchors.

Classic climb that usually has a little line. A full-value route.



Location 

Arete on the right side of the obivous left facing corner of Butcher's Branch.


Protection 

Many bolts to two bolt anchor.



Photos of Flight of the Gumbie Slideshow Add Photo
Brandy Walters leading Flight of the Gumbie
Brandy Walters leading Flight of the Gumbie
CT on FOTG 3/23/14
CT on FOTG 3/23/14
Comments on Flight of the Gumbie Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of the coolest 5.9s ever! Super fun climbing the whole way. I would also contend that statement about no rests. I think you can rest at every bolt if you wanted to.

Beta (Spoiler!!!): If you want to do the route the fun (and apparently easier) way, lean back over the other side at the top. About 3 great holds lead up the arete until you can transition back onto the face with the anchors. The other option (which I've never done) climbs the slab from the last bolt to the anchors and is supposedly harder.

By Dan Petty
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Oct 10, 2010

Its 9 bolts to the 2 bolt anchor.

By Gif Zafred
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Apr 28, 2011

One of the best 9's at the New. Totally worth doing no matter how hard you climb. Long and fun moving around the arete.

By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

long and exposed. fun route

By Matt Baer
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Uber Classic Line! One of the best arette climbs I have done, Highly recommend it.

By Brandy Walters
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I wasn't as impressed with this route as I thought I'd be based on all the rave reviews and guidebook stars. There was a lot of clipping/downclimbing/unclipping shenanigans at the bottom because of the rope drag issue. Next time I think I'd just clip in normally and find out if rope drag really is an issue. I also toproped it again to see if I liked it any better on TR. It was definitely good, the arete is beautiful, but the climbing was just not particularly memorable to me. Enjoyed the jokes about sticking our hands into the wet hole near the top though.

By will merryman
From: Monaca P.A.
Aug 19, 2012

I love arete's. Try this route even if 5.9 is a bit easy for you, use it as a warm up. one of the better climb's at the NRG.

By SmithVentures
From: Coeburn, Virginia
May 27, 2014

Super cool! I loved the lieback exposed variation at the top. Just lean out over the edge and toe in on the other side of the arete. I didn't notice any issues with rope drag personally and yes, lots of rest stances. Nice little crux near the top, but you can handle it easily by doing the lieback or straight climbing the slab face.

By shoptech
From: VA
Jul 18, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Not sure if we did the start correctly, seemed like a v2 to get off the ground with a short traverse. Not as impressive of a route as I expected.

By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Jul 21, 2014

I've heard that often about the start of this route. It's a pullup on good holds to either a heel or a high step. I don't think it's a V2 move though. If it was, this route would garner at least a 5.10a- a difficulty that's just not there. It feels a bit heady because it is a move that requires some effort, and you're still below the first bolt which is a bit high. It's not V2 though. Most people, if they're at all sketched, will stick that somewhat high first bolt. Do that, have your belayer keep you tight, and I bet the move will feel easier than V2.