Find this beautiful route just right of a distinctive south-facing arete on Whirlpool Rock. The route begins [off the ledge] 20' above the ground and works up a right-facing dihedral through a couple of small roofs & an angling splitter to a big ledge. The gear is creative: look for small slots and shallow stopper placements. From the ledge place some small gear (blue Alien, stopper), crank up huge edges to the single bolt, and solve the beautiful crux move to a ledge below the bomber anchor bolts. Rap 85' back to the slab, carefully watching the ends of the rope.
Single set of cams to gold camalot, single set stoppers to 1".
Oct 11, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This route is incredible!! I totally loved it. Careful with the gear at the 2nd roof: good horizontal slot up and left to begin (yellow Alien?), and then a hard-to-see #10-11 stopper placed sideways & shallow from the stem above. Make sure of these pieces, falling onto the slab would really hurt. I don't think you can get a gold camalot in anywhere though.
Flying Dutchman (11c) is just as good, and pretty darn challenging. Cool bouldery start (jump!) out left of FF w/ interesting gear placements, then hard bolt-protected seam-crux exiting the gold slab & awesome bolted arete above.
[Originally this comment was submitted with a 5.9 the rating.]
|By Randy Slavin|
Oct 11, 2005
Not sure what the FA info means when referring to the '1st pitch.' The entire route is only 85'. Maybe it used to be done in 2 pitches with a belay on the big ledge 25' below the top?
Oh, and I agree with the old guidebook: the moves past the bolt are definitely harder than 5.9, even 'old-school' 5.9 IMHO.