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Fun new addition to the Grand Wall Base area.
P1 tackles a typical Squamish finger crack corner. The bottom was quite wet, even after a dry spell... but it was easy enough to pull through on a piece of gear to bypass the wet spot. End at a bolted anchor above the alcove.
P2 The business. Work into the arch and place your #4 in the first wide pod. Good feet keep appearing, and when they start to vanish the crack gets good in the corner. Good gear throughout. The crux is probably the last 15 feet, and the two bolts take the edge off.
Clip the anchor and have your partner lower you to the anchor 60' below (about the same height as your belayer)... much better stance there!
Topo available here: jeremyfrimer.com/Climbing_Routes_files/FlexCapacitor.pdf
Head climber's right from the base of Exasperator up the short hill. At the top of the hill look for a right facing corner that leads to a beautiful arch. Can't miss it.
Double rack small nuts to #3 camalot plus one #4 camalot.
|Comments on Flex Capacitor
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 14, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Great fun. I found the first pitch pumpy for the grade, but that's probably because my slab technique is abysmal. (There's no slab sections but the fet often rely on friction for both pitches.) P1 was wet after three days of dry. The locks during the wet section are bomber though, so just do it.
Second pitch tremendous fun, quite different in character from other 5.10 Grand Wall Base climbs I've done. Quite burly.
Aug 8, 2013
I also found the first pitch stiff. I'd probably call it 10a. The second pitch is awesome and protects extremely well. It is definitely worth bringing your #4, but you could get away without it if you're feeling bold.