|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, 5/89|
|Submitted By:||George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007|
|Comments on Flesh-Eating Gnats||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
|The bolt spacing between bolts 1 and 2 on this line is pretty spacious and could possibly result in a not-so-fun fall. That said, I've never seen anyone fall in that area. We did discover a .3 camalot fits pretty decently in a horizontal between B1 and B2 but didn't fully load test it. Maybe just enough psychological pro to help the leader move up.|
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Having climbed "Flesh-Eating Gnats" and "Wailing Banshees" about the same amount of times now, I still think Gnats is the harder route. With Banshees, if you can hold on to jugs for 40 feet and have enough gas left in the tank to fire the crimpy exit sequence (which isn't *that* hard), the route is all yours. Gnats has some genuine hard cranks off smallish holds, moves that are relatively difficult, even without the pump-factor (which still exists, at least for me).
But no one else I've talked to thinks Gnats is harder, so I'll shut up now.
By Jason Young
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
In addition to the left side start, I have done this route by approaching the first bolt from the right side and bouldering up and left to the second bolt. This has fun moves but is f'n scary. Either way it could use another bolt, or perhaps modified bolt placements.
I think this route is a bit harder than "Wailing Banshees" as well.