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Wailing Banshees S 

Flesh-Eating Gnats 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Riepe, Tom MacFarlane, 5/89
Page Views: 1,388
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Really nice, sustained arete climbing.

Description 

One of the original sport climbs to go in at White Rock, "Gnats" climbs an amazing arete with possible moves on either side using pockets and small ledges. At the beginning, bypass the undercut roof to the left and reach around the arete to the right to clip the out-of-sight 1st bolt. It's a bit intimidating to get to the 2nd bolt but easier than it looks. As you move up farther, look for pockets on both sides of the arete and some stances on the arete itself. Up high, the rock becomes less featured and steeper, with a few bigger moves needed to get through the crux at the end.

Why's it called Flesh-Eating Gnats ?? Climb here in late summer evenings... you'll see.

Location 

Prominent arete between the two most obvious dihedrals (Ralph's Dilemma and Revenge).

Route 10 in Monomaniac's beta photo

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Flesh-Eating Gnats Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Fl...
Jason Halladay moving into the crux sequence of Fl...

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By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The bolt spacing between bolts 1 and 2 on this line is pretty spacious and could possibly result in a not-so-fun fall. That said, I've never seen anyone fall in that area. We did discover a .3 camalot fits pretty decently in a horizontal between B1 and B2 but didn't fully load test it. Maybe just enough psychological pro to help the leader move up.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Having climbed "Flesh-Eating Gnats" and "Wailing Banshees" about the same amount of times now, I still think Gnats is the harder route. With Banshees, if you can hold on to jugs for 40 feet and have enough gas left in the tank to fire the crimpy exit sequence (which isn't *that* hard), the route is all yours. Gnats has some genuine hard cranks off smallish holds, moves that are relatively difficult, even without the pump-factor (which still exists, at least for me).

But no one else I've talked to thinks Gnats is harder, so I'll shut up now.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 2, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

In addition to the left side start, I have done this route by approaching the first bolt from the right side and bouldering up and left to the second bolt. This has fun moves but is f'n scary. Either way it could use another bolt, or perhaps modified bolt placements.

I think this route is a bit harder than "Wailing Banshees" as well.