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Follow a nice hand crack up off of a block. The crack itself will peter out as the angle eases up about 15 to 20' up. Getting onto the low angle portion of this route will be the crux. I placed a hex here, trying to save larger cams for what looked like a 3" horizontal crack above, the next place for good gear. As it turned out, all of the cracks above the start were flaring with no great opportunity for pro and I ended up running it out to the top on 5.4 ground.
This route is over after the first 20' or so. Dave Bingham gave this route a star in his 2000 guide, but it is probably worth doing only if you are in the area for another route.
This route is located on the west side of Owl Rock. It is the first route to the right of Owl Roof.
Some hand size pieces for the lower section and maybe you can fiddle an Alien somewhere in the flaring sections up high. Rap from anchors at the top of this route.
Sep 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
thought the 8 to the right of this was much better.
By Jason Funk
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 16, 2014
Climbed this to setup up a top rope on the 8 to the right as well. Noticed that midway up the crack near the wider section there is a watermelon size chunk of the flake that is fractured almost completely around and seems suspect. At the time a group was below me and I wasn't about to mess with it on lead. The part i'm talking about can be climbed around and safely avoided... just a heads up.