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Flatliner 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Not entirely sure...
Page Views: 644
Submitted By: Drewsky on Jul 22, 2010

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Description 

This extension to Psychosomatic adds a lot of good climbing and a potent crux at the top. After the crux of Psycho, clip the long draw (but not the anchors off to the left). Cop a good rest on the ledge (sitting down invalidates your ascent), then cast off on steep, juggy climbing for about 25 feet. A tough boulder problem right before the anchor provides the crux of the route and some good airtime if you blow it.

Location 

Start as for Psychowussy/Psychosomatic (see description). Lower off with a 70m.

Protection 

Bolts. All are currently fixed except the bolts on the Psychowussy beginning. Long slings useful on the first section to mediate rope drag higher up. I believe the anchors may need new lowering hardware on one or both bolts. 70m rope mandatory for lowering (and it's still close: tie a knot in the end of your rope). The anchor is to the right at the end of the route (it is impossible to see it until you climb around the corner).


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