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Flashback To Acid Beach 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brian Mullin
Page Views: 1,014
Submitted By: William Prehm on Jan 1, 2001
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Kreighton Bieger feeling the acid.

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This the the far left climb on the face to the left of the California Ethics Pinnacle. Excellent moves with a mono pocket hold as the crux. A little tricky moving to the bolts as well.


4 bolts to anchor.

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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Apr 10, 2002

I did this as a "Warm-up" and I remember hollering back down "I can't believe I'm pulling mono's on a 10!" Fun route but a little height-dependent.

By tim naylor
Mar 18, 2004

Good route except for the [weird] clips

By Larry Shaw
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Nice route but the last move to the anchor felt harder for me.

By Scott Edwards
Dec 22, 2005

Gear Alert

The right cold shut at the anchor is a great example of why you don't TR directly off anchors. Ropes have worn at least half-way through, and it WILL fail soon! I will replace with a new hanger next time I'm on the route. But, if that doesn't happen any time soon...be warned.

By ac
Dec 23, 2005

Why do you say that this is [due] to toproping? Lowering off after leading is the likely culprit. For future equippers, steel rings are the only way to go.

By Matt Richardson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 3, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

I don't know...given that I have seen large parties TR'ing off of the anchors, I would suspect that this might have a greater impact. However, it does seem to be a majority who don't seem to see a problem with lowering off of the anchors.

By Curt Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Cool little route with only a few harder moves at the top.