Flash Cadillac
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: |
TR, 95 ft (29 m)
Fixed Hardware
(1) |
FA: | J. Roberts, B. Ruckman, 1988 |
Page Views: | 1,097 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 30, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is a fun route with a short but hard crux right off of the deck.
Look directly out past the newly replaced bolt (5/2015, thanks to ACE). Move out right to that bolt (5.10-), and clip that, which might be hard for short climbers. The moves to the bolt could probably be made easier by stemming off of the tree, but that is not necessary.
Having clipped the bolt, make difficult (crux) moves to go right and out to access a finger crack. The moves in the finger crack are generally solid and well-protected for a few body lengths and are not hard climbing, perhaps 5.9+.
When the crack ends, put in a final bit of gear. A passive brown or red tricam is perfect. A medium stopper is reasonably good but is slightly more likely to wiggle out in the next traversing moves.
If you liked the style of the crux and want 70 more feet of sustained moves like that, continue up and left to finish on The Untitled (12a). If you have sore toes or tips, head up and right to finish on Ichiban Arete (10a) on sparse trad gear.
Look directly out past the newly replaced bolt (5/2015, thanks to ACE). Move out right to that bolt (5.10-), and clip that, which might be hard for short climbers. The moves to the bolt could probably be made easier by stemming off of the tree, but that is not necessary.
Having clipped the bolt, make difficult (crux) moves to go right and out to access a finger crack. The moves in the finger crack are generally solid and well-protected for a few body lengths and are not hard climbing, perhaps 5.9+.
When the crack ends, put in a final bit of gear. A passive brown or red tricam is perfect. A medium stopper is reasonably good but is slightly more likely to wiggle out in the next traversing moves.
If you liked the style of the crux and want 70 more feet of sustained moves like that, continue up and left to finish on The Untitled (12a). If you have sore toes or tips, head up and right to finish on Ichiban Arete (10a) on sparse trad gear.
Protection
From the tree on First Route, there is a single bolt then thin to off-fingers gear. A brown Tricam sits perfectly at the top of the crack, but a medium/large nut will do. After that, you can climb up and left to join a line of 8 bolts on The Untitled (12a) or out right to join Ichibahn Arete with a little trad gear(10a, PG-13).
There is a bolted belay up top that will get you back to the tree, then do one more rap to the ground from that sling and ring belay.
Per Gregger Man: the bolt was upgraded on 05/30/2015.
There is a bolted belay up top that will get you back to the tree, then do one more rap to the ground from that sling and ring belay.
Per Gregger Man: the bolt was upgraded on 05/30/2015.
Photos
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