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This right arching, flaring squeeze with a fist crack in the back starts straight up and eventually curves all the way over to horizontal traversing before it ends at a giant horn feature at the edge of the squeeze chimney of Where Janitors Dare. The crux comes at about the 30' level just before the traversing starts, transitioning from sort of chimneying to a few lieback moves. The initial section of rock is pretty good, especially inside the flare itself, but where it starts traversing the rock turns extremely rotten. The route was rated 5.8 in older guides, which would be a pretty good sandbag.
A better way to finish this route is to climb to the beginning of the traverse where Great White Buffalo crosses through (bolt just above) and finish on the Buffalo. This gives you the best (and crux) section of Flared Bear, skips the choss, and ups the difficulty a bit. Done this way the overall crux would be the first 8' after leaving Flared Bear, on a tenuous steep lieback to mantle and would weigh in around 10+. The remainder is slightly easier standard Josh slab paddling on very good rock.
At the far left end of the West Face of the Sentinel is an obvious, clean looking right arching flare that starts straight up, ends up traversing and merging into a squeeze chimney to the right (Where Janitors Dare).
Descent: 3 options.
1. If finishing where it merges with Where Janitors Dare, rap from the large horn type feature (no fixed anchor or station, just drape the rope).
2. Continue into and finish on Where Janitors Dare. Use the rap anchor atop GWBuffalo.
3. If finishing on GWBuffalo, there is a two bolt station with chains/rings at the top.
1.5" to 6", emphasis on 3"-4.5". If doing the GWBuffalo finish, add 5 draws and a shoulder length sling for the thread at the mantle.
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the Flared Bear area on Sentinel.
Greg on the chimney portion of Flared Bear
|By Russ Walling|
Jan 21, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The "Flared Buffalo" is a great way to do this route. Continuing all the way across the arch does not look all that appealing. Watch out for the big flake thingy that allows you access to the upper face of GWB/Butt Buttress. It is for sure loose, and since it can be slung as pro to keep you from slapping the ramp below, think happy thoughts to keep it on the wall as you try to surmount it....
Chris Miller wrote on the GWB beta page: ...pass the wide crack of Flared Bear (which arcs right) and then continue up the steep and improbable face above (5.11) to the end of the difficulties where the route joins The Butt Buttress (5.10b) at it's second bolt. The route finishes with the upper portion of that route and shares it's bolted anchor.
From: Bishop Ca.
Mar 12, 2012
FA date should be May 1975.
1965 I would have been 9