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Lower Buckhorn Wash
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Flapjack Tower 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kory Kowallis
New Route: Yes
Season: Winter, Spring or Fall
Page Views: 718
Submitted By: Mr.K on Oct 31, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: I just pulled this off of the Haagenschlong photos...

Description 

Start by climbing a finger crack to the right of a fun looking slab. After about 15 feet pull onto the slab and continue up the crack. A slight mantle leads you to either a slopey ledge to the right or a small flat edge to the left of the crack. From there, the crack widens and the rock turns sandy. Pull into the off-width and get a knee in. Take a breath, for it's about to get "fun". Pull into the last crack system, grab some edges on the face and climb to the sub par pockets and dirty crack. 5 more feet of easy climbing to the top. Anchors are a power draw a quickdraw.

Be very careful pulling your rope. The crack system likes to suck it in.

I didn't have a brush to clean the top on the tower. The bottom is great and didn't need any cleaning at all, except for a little blowing off holds.

Placements are scary up high because of the quality of the rock, but as long as you have the gear...



Location 

This tower is right next to Haagenschlong. You can either approach it form the approach pitch of Haagenschlong and walk past the chimney pitch and turn left up another slot. This is the tower and the route starts right after you come out of the slot.

Or you can scramble up the south side of the cliff. To scramble, park at the start of the Pine Canyon road and walk north toward Haagenschlong taking a less steep approach, climb some loose rock to a platform. From there you will see the tower west of you (toward the Buckhorn Wash road)

Protection 

Standard desert rack with extras of .25 - .75. The first ascent was done with only a standard rack but those extras would have been very nice.


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By Mr.K
Dec 16, 2012

Rumor has it someone (Chris) messed with the anchors which is why the rope gets stuck. Is sounds like they took off one of the draws and threaded the other one through the draw-less bolt which makes for a big mess. If you do this route, make sure to take webbing, or a draw, or a power draw, or something to replace it, unless you like a mess. Let me know what you think of how it is when you first see it.
By Paul S
From: Fruita, CO
Apr 1, 2013

I never noticed that there was a tower right here. It blends in so well with the wall behind it. Nice find!

We extended the anchor over the cap rock, so the rope pulls fine now as long as you don't get the rope in the big decaying fin you pass on the way up, which is easy to avoid (on the way down, on the way up is a different story). We were a little nervous with the anchor though, the bolts are in a section of rock that is undercut and there is a crack separating it from the rest of the cap rock. Probably fine for now, but something to keep an eye on.