|Closed (private property)|
Fun slab route with a well-protected crux and slightly easier runout climbing. Scramble up to belay below the obvious tree about 70 feet up just to the left of the summit of Squat Rock. Follow a thin seam for about 10 feet (yellow Alien or small wires), clip the first bolt and move right onto the slab. Clip the second bolt from a good foothold, make a couple of 5.8 moves and run it out to the third bolt on 5.6 ground. Move up and left to the slung tree anchor. The last runout to the tree is listed on the topo as 5.9, it felt more like 5.8 to me. The 5.8 moves, however, come just before the anchor. You probably wouldn't deck from a fall here, but I would be hesitant to give it a try.
3 QDs, yellow Alien (or small wire), slung tree anchor.
|By Tyler Jones|
Aug 21, 2001
This route REALLY pushed my nerves for some reason. It's a typical S. Platte runout on tiny friction. If you're like me and really getting into leading 10s, this is a perfect route to test your mental ablility on friction.
|By Darin Lang|
Aug 24, 2001
I have to disagree with Tyler on this one. I would not recommend this route to "test" your mental ability on Friction. Best to have some confidence going in. There are two spots where falling is not an option: (1) between the second and third bolts, pretty easy for friction but a fall just before the third clip would leave you wedged between the wall and a big flake; and (2) the final 5.8 moves before the anchor which, as noted in the route description "might not" result in decking.
|By Darin Lang|
Nov 1, 2001
This is posted outside the "BT" thread, lest I offend anyone by commenting on a route I have not done. Rest assured, I have no "personal agenda" against anyone, and certainly not against Tony. Life is too short.
The point (which I think everyone understood) from my original comment was simply this: *in my opinion*, the seriousness of a route is inherent to the route and to the rock, and not to the ability of the climber. If you can get solid gear in, even if it is tricky and strenuous to place (and ability to place gear and climbing ability are not, in my mind, synonymous), the route is not an "s" rated route *to me*. If you can't get gear in, or the gear is questionable, well, the route is a serious one *to me*, regardless of who is climbing it.
Some plainly disagree with me, many if not all of whom have more experience and are better climbers. That's cool, and I don't take their disagreement as personal affront to my character or reputation, such as it is. That's part of the reason for this site.
Now, how do I get to Eldo again?
|By steve dieckhoff|
Nov 1, 2001
for what it's worth... I agree with Darin's last remarks. Seriousness is a quality independent of the climber's abitlity. A good analysis of this quality can be found in Jim Erickson's ROCKY HEIGHTS guidebook.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 1, 2001
To play the devil's advocate, however, when there is a runout that could produce a serious fall, how hard the runout climbing is relative to the crux *does* influence the seriousness rating. For example, a 5.10 route with a 30 foot runout on 5.7 would probably not be rated s if the 5.8-5.10 moves were well protected (or Rossiter will sometimes rate it 10, (7 s), a cumbersome but informative notation. However if the same climb was 5.7 with that same 30 foot runout it would be rated s.
Jun 3, 2003
My opinion, while the runouts aren't trivial, the protection is reasonable. Don't be discouraged, however, be solid on the grade
|By John McNamee|
From: Littleton, CO
Jun 29, 2003
Outstanding route that does not justify the S rating. It is protected appropriately for the seriousness of the climbing. The moves up to the first bolt can be well protected with a small caming unit. Alternatively you could stick clip the first bolt. There is a branch lying close by with tape on it that looks as though it has been used for this purpose. The crux is the transition from the crack to the slab. Once established on the slab and past the first bolt it is pretty straightforward 5.8 to 5.9 slab. A fall between the top bolt to the tree in _my opinion_ would be okay, but not a place to test your slab climbing ability. There are much safer places to learn.
|By Matt Chan|
Oct 24, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R
I found Flamingo Road to be no more difficult than Elusive Wapiti (5.9+) and similar in quality. As mentioned previously, a yellow alien is nice to have prior to clipping bolt 1. Mostly sustained 5.8 to 5.9 slab with perfectly placed bolts, but certainly a tad runout after bolt 3.