Flamingo Lane  5.10d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.10d [details] FA:  Mark Anderson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Apr 19, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Beginning the crux boulder problem of Flamingo Lan...

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Description 

This is another intended warmup that turned out harder than expected. This line is mostly fairly moderate with two difficult sections split by a no-hands rest. There is some really nice rock on the upper headwall, but there are better routes at the grade on this cliffline.

Stick clip the first bolt, then teeter up loose rock to a stance on the arete. The first crux is working left from the arete to gain the base of the obvious detached pillar. Follow big jugs on the face of the pillar (or lieback the crack on the right) to reach the big ledge. The second crux is a 4-5 move boulder problem leaving the ledge, utilizing a good crimp, a fragile-looking sidepull and a pair of pitiful pockets. At the horizontal break, things get fun again with big reaches and big edges & pockets.

Location 

The bolted line between Long Black Veil & Logan's Run.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

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Flamingo Lane.