Flaming Lips  5.11d PG13

300 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  B. Burgess and J. Burton Season:  warm to hot Submitted By:  andjoely on Jun 19, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

FA of roof extension

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

2013 Closed MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013 All climbing between and including Southwest Arete and Mainline are closed due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Climb past 4? bolts to a short runout on easier terrain to a spot with gear and then head to 2 bolt anchor 60 feet up.

Extension: 5.11b PG13 (FA: A. McDowell et al.) Climb the easy right facing corner to clip a bolt in the roof (75mm triplex), step down a couple feet and pull onto the face to the left and continue on slightly runout yet pumpy terrain to a 1 bolt + 1 fixed nut lower off anchor (90 feet lower off to ground). You could also potentially pull the roof direct at the bolt for a harder variation.

Location 

20 feet right of pussy footing

Protection 

bring a medium size cam (.75 or #1 camalot, I forget, for after the last bolt). For the extension, bring a small selection of cams for up to the bolt in the roof

Photos of Flaming Lips Slideshow

Add Photo

Andrew climbing.

Andrew climbing.