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Flaming Lips 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: B. Burgess and J. Burton
Season: warm to hot
Page Views: 409
Submitted By: andjoely on Jun 19, 2011
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FA of roof extension

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  • Description 

    Climb past 4? bolts to a short runout on easier terrain to a spot with gear and then head to 2 bolt anchor 60 feet up.

    Extension: 5.11b PG13 (FA: A. McDowell et al.) Climb the easy right facing corner to clip a bolt in the roof (75mm triplex), step down a couple feet and pull onto the face to the left and continue on slightly runout yet pumpy terrain to a 1 bolt + 1 fixed nut lower off anchor (90 feet lower off to ground). You could also potentially pull the roof direct at the bolt for a harder variation.


    Location 

    20 feet right of pussy footing


    Protection 

    bring a medium size cam (.75 or #1 camalot, I forget, for after the last bolt). For the extension, bring a small selection of cams for up to the bolt in the roof



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    By JohnWesely
    From: Red River Gorge
    Jun 19, 2011
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

    Fantastic thin face.