Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala  5.11- PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.11- [details] FA:  Piana, Cowan (1986) for FBJ... Mandala unknown? Submitted By:  nolteboy on Jul 16, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Although rarely traveled, this line's obscurity is undeserved. Interesting moves, adequate but slightly spicy protection, and a super cool exit... Start as for Arch Stanton, off of a large boulder. Power up past the overlap, then step left into the dihedral and stem up past the bottoming crack. When Mandala breaks right, place gear and head out over the big empty.

Location 

On the SE side of Holdout. Start as for Arch Stanton (& if you can't find Arch Stanton, go back to the truck), Gear anchor or slung boulders on top, then shimmy thru the narrow corridor to the NE (i.e. to the right, as you top out on the route) and find cold shuts atop Bushwhack.

Protection 

Although given R ratings in the current spate of guidebooks, protection is actually pretty dang good. Even after passing the overlap of Arch Stanton, two small but solid placements appear- a #7-ish stopper followed by a green Alien/blue TCU. After a couple of spooky stemming moves, a #2 Camalot can be thankfully placed. Rack should include stoppers, doubles of smallish stuff, and a couple of hand-sized pieces for the middle section after the bottoming crack. Nothing bigger, except maybe for the anchor on top?