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 ADVANCED
Holdout
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
19th Nervous Breakdown T 
Arch Stanton T,S 
Beefeater T 
Bushwhack T 
Currey's Diagonal T 
Eleven Cent Moon T,S,TR 
Equilibrium T 
Existential Dilemma T 
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 
Morning Sickness T 
Narrow and Ugly T 
Oslund's Delight T 
Pipeline S 
Rainbow in the Dark T 
Reading Raymond Chandler T,TR 
Silver Surfer T 
Up the Down Chimney T 
Veggie Eater S 
Very Narrow and Treesy T 
Wide and Ugly T 
William T 
Wright of Thick and Thin T 
Unsorted Routes:

Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Piana, Cowan (1986) for FBJ... Mandala unknown?
Page Views: 641
Submitted By: nolteboy on Jul 16, 2006

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Although rarely traveled, this line's obscurity is undeserved. Interesting moves, adequate but slightly spicy protection, and a super cool exit... Start as for Arch Stanton, off of a large boulder. Power up past the overlap, then step left into the dihedral and stem up past the bottoming crack. When Mandala breaks right, place gear and head out over the big empty.


Location 

On the SE side of Holdout. Start as for Arch Stanton (& if you can't find Arch Stanton, go back to the truck), Gear anchor or slung boulders on top, then shimmy thru the narrow corridor to the NE (i.e. to the right, as you top out on the route) and find cold shuts atop Bushwhack.


Protection 

Although given R ratings in the current spate of guidebooks, protection is actually pretty dang good. Even after passing the overlap of Arch Stanton, two small but solid placements appear- a #7-ish stopper followed by a green Alien/blue TCU. After a couple of spooky stemming moves, a #2 Camalot can be thankfully placed. Rack should include stoppers, doubles of smallish stuff, and a couple of hand-sized pieces for the middle section after the bottoming crack. Nothing bigger, except maybe for the anchor on top?



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