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 ADVANCED
North and West Faces
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Better than Bitter S 
Broken Thumb T 
cTr S 
Diminishing Returns T 
Falling Apart at the Seams T 
Flamin' Freddie T 
Guilt Trip T 
Hollow Man S 
Nuthin' Tuff T 
On a Whim T 
Pins and Knickers T 
Tuff Enough T 
Tuff'n Up S 
Winky and Waxman Go Bolting S 
Wrecking Ball S 

Flamin' Freddie 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Fred Thalmann 1986
Page Views: 1,865
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 4, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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BETA PHOTO: My partner rappeling after setting up the toprope.

Description 

Flamin' Freddie is on the west side of Challenge Buttress so it gets good shade in the morning/early afternoon.

Climb up the steep opening, traversing slightly left to more dihedral climbing. Follow this up to easier ground (passing an anchor on the right). Continue up the steep face with big jugs for an exciting finish. Pro is more difficult to find in the upper parts, but opportunities are available.

Protection 

Standard Rack. This route takes small to medium gear, nothing big is necessary. Two bolt anchor.

Location 

To locate the line, first find Hollow Man (5.9, bolts up vertical face). Then, just left is a bolted route that pulls through a big roof. Start below this in a left-facing dihedral.


Photos of Flamin' Freddie Slideshow Add Photo
Setting my first piece on a perfect stance.
Setting my first piece on a perfect stance.
Cruising through the lower section.
Cruising through the lower section.

Comments on Flamin' Freddie Add Comment
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By Charles Konopa
May 20, 2006

While waiting for Hollow Man to open up, we set up a toprope on this climb since we didn't have any trad gear, and we weren't up to the R rating. If I were to trad climb this route I'd bring a double set of micro nuts.
By Nathan Fisher
May 30, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Not as runout as the Ruckman guide lead me to believe, but they probably didn't have the plethora of micro-cams that I did. Excellent route, magnificent exposure, and solid climbing. Go lead this one. A bit of brass up high, and nothing larger than a #2 Camalot. There are a lot of cracks and features that take gear that don't appear until you are right there. Oh and do it without clipping the anchor to Wrecking Ball that is right there.
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Aug 12, 2006

This climb should see more action. It is a great climb! It actually protects very well, you just have to look a little harder for the placements and use some longer runners. Mostly small cams and nuts (RP size) only one set of nuts is necessary. Small (thin crack) placements but all are bomber. Dont let the R rating scare you away.
By Rockwood
From: West Jordan
Jun 16, 2010

I enjoyed this climb way more than Hollow Man. The stemming start and underclings below the roof, plus the sweet view up the canyon you get looking over the top of the buttress when you pull up to the anchors...it all remind me of the reasons I love climbing. Don't pass this one up.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 20, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Perhaps this is an inappropriate venue for questions––? Does anyone remember how much gear they were able to place? I am having trouble figuring out exactly where the climb goes and how runout it is. I'd like to give the line a try, but I'm not sure if it's just difficult gear placements and can be stitched up by a patient leader with a a rack of C3s, peanuts, and astro nuts, or if there really is very little gear and the climb is unprotected? Because, from the comments, it sounds like the climb might protect better than it appears.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Jun 25, 2014

Traverse left under the roof, go up the dihedral, work straight and up finish left. Protects moderately well using small tcu's to mid-sized cams, nothing special needed. You don't "need" wires.
By Gabriel Tallent
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

Fantastic climb. Interesting up through the dihedral, traverse left and gain another dihedral, and than big, hero-sized moves on buckets and ledges up to the top. This should be done more often.

Can be top roped by climbing Broken Thumb, Tuff Enough, On a Whim, Nuth'n Tuff, anything that tops out, and walking to chains. Be careful with your rope. However, it is well worth the lead. The exposed section up top is thrilling.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 27, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I don't think this climb is R you can get quite a bit of gear all along it except for maybe the start. I usually traverse into the corner from the left and sometimes back-clean my first piece. Single set of cams to 3 camalot, nuts, and a few long slings should suffice.