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Flaky Chimp 

5.10c R

   
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
FA: Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: May through October
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Jul 11, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Your rating: -none- [change]
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BETA PHOTO: Good moves on "iffy" holds

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Description 

Five bolts through some iffy holds leads to chains.


Location 

Lower Jungle on the "Pygmy Wall" just right of "The Great Rift Valley."


Protection 

Quick draws and a helmet for the belayer.



Photos of Flaky Chimp Slideshow Add Photo
First clip is not as bad as it seems

BETA PHOTO: First clip is not as bad as it seems


Comments on Flaky Chimp Add Comment
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By Roy Suggett
Oct 11, 2010

This route has some really great moves that require using some really questionable rock. Belayer beware. The route will clean up over time most likely changing the rating.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.10+ PG13

By the time I got on this one I had wrapped my head around the potential looseness of the place but the flake left of the 2nd bolt still boggled my mind. Especially when I stepped on it.
Anyway, this is another good line with super technical insecure moves around a bunch of questionable rock. Definitely worth doing and didn't feel R if you take your time and carefully choose your holds. An all-points-off double dyno to the flake might land you in the bushes though. Have someone take pictures when you go for it!