Flakey  5.7

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Patrick McGaugh on Sep 1, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The route is easily spotted. It is the giant flake in the middle of the rock that ends at a tree. The route starts just to the right of Arching Way in a good size crack. The crux is a little wide but comes quickly and isn't bad at all. Soon the flake will be obvious on your right. Head right and get ready to climb one of the nicer cracks I have experienced.

My two biggest pieces were a #3 Camalot and a #4 Friend so I placed the #3 as high as I could and then started up. I slid my #4 until the angle lessened up and ran it out to the belay. The rock isn't steep so it makes for an easy but fun lieback. You can walk or rap off from the belay. If you're in the area it's a fun route.

Protection 

This route mostly requires 3-4" cams. You could use a smaller piece or two before the main flake. Some long slings before the flake help reduce drag. The belay is a tree with slings.

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BETA PHOTO: The route.	Near the top.	At the start.