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At the crux of the route just above the cool thin ...
The initial part of this climb ascends a thin flake for the first 15 feet (crux). Gain the ledge and go left up a finger crack to a small roof. Turn the roof to the left or the right. This route is easily rigged for TR from the top.
[If you know the "real name" for this climb, post up. -Admin]
Approximately 15 feet to the left of Blow Hole.
1 set wired stoppers, 1 set cams up to a #1 Camalot.
A bolted anchor for Flakey Nine is down on the big ledge.
Getting ready to move around to the right of the r...
|By Daniel Trugman|
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Apr 12, 2009
Another worthy 5.9 at the Playground. Fun moves on the flakes lead to cool stemming in the upper dihedral up..
Gear through the crux opening twenty feet is a bit tricky. TCUs, link cams, or big stuff (#4/#5) protect this reasonably well. I've heard small nuts get the job done as well. Anyways, it's there, you just need to be creative.
Maybe a little easier than Upper Left Roof, but more fun IMO.