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 ADVANCED
Summit Blocks - East (Main)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Across The Universe S 
Arriba Su Vientre T 
Caveman Television T,S 
Dig A Pony S,TR 
Dig It S,TR 
Eaks it Out T 
Flakes to Fresno T,TR 
Hardly Worth the Trouble T 
Limís Cramp Chimney TR 
Sunnyside T,S 
Vanceís Vertical Vent T,TR 
Wave, The TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Flakes to Fresno 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rusty Garing & Friends
Page Views: 1,309
Submitted By: Chris Nosti on Jan 26, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Bob Hill easily dispatches the short trad lead, Fl...

Description 

This route is the obvious left diagonal crack in the middle block. A good day of climbing would be to ascend P-Wall via P-Crack or Route Canal and then finish the day on Flakes. This is a straightforward lead and the only difficulty is deciding whether you want to use the face or just get your right side completely in the crack.

Protection 

This route sucks up the larger hexes and cams and you will be glad to have them when you have your whole body shoved into the crack. A good rack would be from 1" to 3.5".


Photos of Flakes to Fresno Slideshow Add Photo
grovelin' my way up Flakes. (photo: Jeff Salmon)
grovelin' my way up Flakes. (photo: Jeff Salmon)
Miles trying not to look goofy as he sets off to 2nd Flakes to Fresno (5.8).
Miles trying not to look goofy as he sets off to 2...
Brian on Flakes getting ready to be sucked into the "pod".
Brian on Flakes getting ready to be sucked into th...
Brian & Matt setting out to climb Flakes to Fresno.
Brian & Matt setting out to climb Flakes to Fresno...
Marisa Fienup climbs Flakes to Fresno (5.8) at Bishop's Peak.
Marisa Fienup climbs Flakes to Fresno (5.8) at Bis...

Comments on Flakes to Fresno Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeshua Borges
Dec 28, 2004

This was my first off width crack. I got pretty banged up on the first pass but ended up having a blast and learned a thing or two in the process.
By AAA Climber
Jan 8, 2006

Looks like the anchor bolts were chopped in the last few months. Anyone know why?
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Jan 9, 2006

With one to two inch cams, you can belay from the notch above the crack, or at the top of the summit block. Alternately, you can belay from the bolts above "Across the Universe," although it is a somewhat off to the side
By Slater
Jan 9, 2006

I would talk to Ken. I think he talked about maybe moving them or even taking them out. I think he was a bit worried after that hiker death (Ken was the last guy to set the anchors up there I believe). He was thinking that maybe the guy tripped over them and his conscience was pretty loaded. It turned out not to be the case, but maybe it inspired him to finally go up and take them out. But I could be totally wrong, so talk to Ken. If I remember correctly, you can still rig up a solid anchor with gear.
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 4, 2006

'Flakes' really isn't an offwidth crack at all. It's a hand and fist crack. When I think offwidth, I think of hand stacks, chicken-winging, and arm bars - none of which are necessary. The trick on Flakes is to keep from getting sucked in too deep at the pod 3/4 of the way up.

As for a rack, I bring 3 cams total, a #2, #3, and #4 Camalot (or equivalent). If you don't have a #4, bring 2 #3s.
By Floyd Hayes
Oct 17, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I took along two #3s and two #4s, used them all, and was glad to have them. I also used two smaller cams to sew it all up.