Flakes of Wrath
|Type: ||Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Cullen Kirk, Eric Frye & Zach Harrison, January 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||866|
|Submitted By: ||Zach Harrison on Jun 1, 2011|
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The super rad second pitch! Photo by Cullen Kirk.
This climb barges up the middle of Escudo, the proud wall at the head of the Anfiteatro. The rock is really good, the position is amazing and the summit views are sublime. The downside is this climb has one of the longest approaches in Cochamo.
P1 From the big ledge at the base of the face, climb a funky, wide crack that goes up left, 5.9, 100'.
P2 Head up the rad fist crack that widens to a chimney. At the top of the chimney, clip a bolt and face climb up right to a ledge, 5.11-, 150'.
P3 Face climb a small dihedrial past 2 bolts to a small ledge then up a angling flake into the long, nice right facing corner above passing more bolts to a ledge, 5.11+, 175'.
P4 Straight up crack to the big sloping ledge system that cuts across the face. Traverse right and down to a left facing corner, 5.10, 50' vert & 30' hor.
P5 Climb crack up around a roof then traverse left on face to the right edge of the lower roof then up to the left edge of the upper roof then straight up to a belay stance, 5.9, 100' vert & 50' hor. P6 Look for a bolt 30' up and left, climb to it then go up the nice face above past 2 more bolts and an overlap to the amazing summit, 5.9, 150'.
There is a topo in the climbing book at the wonderful refugio that might be a little different but more accurate then this.
The route is on Escudo (Shield), the clean wall way up at the back of the Anfiteatro. It follows a big dihedral to the ledge then snakes up the headwall. To get to the base of Escudo we soloed a 5.6 right trending ramp system that starts over on the far left side of the scoop below Escudo, then scrambled 4th and easy 5th up to the wall itself. This section was devious, scary and took about an hour. I guess you could do a few roped pitches to the easier scrambling. Once at the base of Escudo proper, Flakes of Wrath is the obvious right facing corner in the middle of the wall.
Standard trad rack with nuts, including small ones, cams from tcu's to very large, extra fist sized cams, many runners and 2 ropes. The hard climbing is well protected but pitches 3 & 5 require some thoughtful placements and might be slightly runout but are safe. Pitch 6 is straight up runout, but the rock is bomber and there are bolts, and if you made it that far you'll be fine. There are anchors for rapping each pitch, except from the top of P5, go straight to the top of P3. Be careful pulling your ropes when rapping to the ground.
The second pitch is just incredibly fun. Photo by ...
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