|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Jim Wilson, John Long, Eric Erickson, and Tobin Sorenson, 1978|
|Submitted By:||Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006|
|Comments on Flakes of Wrath||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 19, 2008
|A nice variation is to do "Flakes of Quest," as you come up out of the crux of pitch one, traverse up and left into the business on Johnny Quest. Double rope technique is nice for this bit.|
By Pat C
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
|This is one of the most brutal climbs I know.|
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 7, 2010
|A nice climb, but the crux will definitely give problems to those with poor jamming skills. The finish suggested by Kris is a nice way to go. The original second pitch is kind of meandering and a little runout, but not as scary as the 5.9 R rating suggests.|
Mar 23, 2015
I hear you there Pat C...this route is a bit scary, really physical, and it does not let up until you make the shift up and to the left to that ledge. It's in your face, and that there is zero pro on the approach stuff is not confidence building. Do this when it's in the shade, cuz' you'll be sweating enough anyway...
When I did this route in '86 it had a fixed pin to get you off the ramp and up into the dihedral...Is it still there? I did it with a dude by the name of "Rondo" Powell, and it really kicked his ass. Gargoyle and I were getting quite a chuckle out of his southern accent, "I don't know about y'all five ten climbers, Man!" Rondo went on to become a very good climber, but this was early on for him, right when he was first doing harder climbs. He was quite a character.
My rack, in order of placement: draw on the FP (?...and if that is gone, then try to slip in something really thin with an opposition to lock it in place as you step up to that sloping ramp)); #8 Rock (Med. Stopper) on rt. wall; #2.5 Friend; #2 Friend in Horizontal (pro at crux); #3 Friend four feet left; #3 Friend ten feet higher...This route would be real spooky without that fixed Pin...just sayin'...and would make that 5.10b entry move one dicey thing to commit to.