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 ADVANCED
Northeast Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Etude T 
Flake Out T 
Flakes of Wrath T 
Flower of High Rank T 
Johnny Quest T 
Rock Hudson T 
Spooky Spike T 
Wet Dreams T 

Flakes of Wrath 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Bachar, Gib Lewis, Jim Wilson, John Long, Eric Erickson, and Tobin Sorenson, 1978
Page Views: 1,845
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 25, 2006

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Flakes of Wrath. My first time trying it, couldn'...

Description 

Pitch 1 is the crux, with strenuous lieback and hand jams in good rock. The 5.9 second pitch is runout. It finishes on top of the rock - walk off to the right. This route is in the shade after mid-morning

Protection 

standard rack


Photos of Flakes of Wrath Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the from the top of Flakes of Wrath
Looking down the from the top of Flakes of Wrath
Pitch one of Flakes Of Wrath (5.10c/d R).  Crack coming up from the tree is Johnny Quest.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch one of Flakes Of Wrath (5.10c/d R). Crack c...
Adam just past the start or crux of Flakes of Wrath.
Adam just past the start or crux of Flakes of Wrat...
Flakes of Wrath.
BETA PHOTO: Flakes of Wrath.

Comments on Flakes of Wrath Add Comment
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By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Feb 19, 2008

A nice variation is to do "Flakes of Quest," as you come up out of the crux of pitch one, traverse up and left into the business on Johnny Quest. Double rope technique is nice for this bit.
By Pat C
From: Honolulu
Jul 4, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This is one of the most brutal climbs I know.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Apr 7, 2010

A nice climb, but the crux will definitely give problems to those with poor jamming skills. The finish suggested by Kris is a nice way to go. The original second pitch is kind of meandering and a little runout, but not as scary as the 5.9 R rating suggests.