By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO Feb 28, 2002 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
The left hand 'direct' variation is 5.11b and is even more fun than the regular route. Note, however, that a few non-direct moves are made in the 'direct' route. It's a great problem with a complex and interesting crux.
I felt that the crux was in the thin section in the middle of the climb. I used several wires here but didn't have all the sizes I needed. The way the crack pinches down makes small cam and tcu placements impossible. Take stoppers from about #6 to #12. The roof takes a #1 and #2 cam. fun climb
I guess I'm not a fan of Wall St, it is too close to a major road for my tastes. When those potash trucks blast by just inches from your belayer it detracts from the wilderness setting! This is the best line I've done there, though.
Definitely a 3-Star Wall St. climb. A teriffic pitch of jamming and laybacking. Do bring a set of small to medium stoppers for the crux. I cavalierly left mine at the base and had to rig up a marginal cam. A must-do and easier than the Moki Roof, IMO.
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Feb 9, 2004 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Number one and two camalots. Jam your way up this beautiful crack to an anchor. Save enough energy for that roof crack thing to the right.
I've loved this route for years now, but it freaks me out to climb it because I've seen two people deck on it from 30+ feet. Both of them zippered. I'm pretty sure they weren't placing correctly, though, as I've never had any problems. Also, that crap at the bottom of the climb is Poison Sumac. Two months of rashes helped me learn that.
This was my second trad lead and is still one of my favorite climbs in the area. I think I placed up to a #4 Friend at the start for security reasons. Also watch out for the sand in the crack that always ensues after a good rain.
Absolutely awesome route!!! my first trad lead on sandstone and all the placements felt solid. If your up for a good challenge try the direct variation. The crux is definitely interesting!
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK May 8, 2009 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Rock in this area has been trashed by rope-grooves created through people lowering off and top-roping from fixed anchors. Try looking at the photos to figure out which are the more recent ones! There are some very popular small sandstone outcrops in SE England that have been badly abused in the past by climbers top-roping, but even there it's rare to find rope damage as bad as this. Guide-book needs to state emphatically that, to avoid further damage, climbers should belay at top of pitch, then abseil, sorry rap, to ground. Come on guys, this is common sense - we don't need the environmental police on our backs. Route itself is no soft touch - in UK terms as hard as HVS 5b at Wilton.
By Woodson From: Park City, Ut. May 16, 2009 rating: 5.9+5c17VI17E1 5a
Sooooo bad A$$$$! This route should not be missed, and should be repeated and repeated. The undercling is so great, and protects well, and runners here are a good call. I didn't runner it and ended with some drag.
I did this route rope solo, using my truck as the anchor and absolutely loved it. Good jams with an interesting reachy(finger crack)/smeary(for feet) crux that protects well with nuts. No need to bring anything bigger than a #3 camalot. I am not a fan of climbing by a major road with big trucks buzzing by and climbers bringing their families(kids and dogs)to the area. Another thing I witnessed was belayers standing in the road and not moving out of the way of traffic. Is this arrogance or ignorance?
By Peter Swank From: Boulder, CO May 8, 2010 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a
Beautiful line, with great protection all the way up.
By Rob C. From: Freeport, ME Oct 31, 2010 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
Great jams! Really fun and somewhat sustained!
By Alex Quitiquit From: Salt Lake City Mar 16, 2012 rating: 5.9-5c17VI16HVS 4c
Nuts and tricams, or hexes for the middle section where the two cracks/flakes meet. This gear protects the crux so make it count. Use a long sling on the roof to reduce drag to the anchors! So fun.
As intimidating as the overhang traverse thing looks, this is not the hard part. The hard part is definitely the thin section. I top roped this, but was checking out the pro possibilities while climbing. Looks interesting for sure in that thin section. My leader placed a .5 C4 in that section, but man was it tough to get out. Sounds like other people manage to place a nut in that section. Oh, this route is a bit pumpy as well, but it might have just been that it was my third day down there.
I lead this the other day and a guy named John was there and let me use a cam and left before I could return it. John if you see this can you email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I can mail your cam back to you!