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Flakes of Wrath Direct 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,607
Submitted By: Lucas J Matthews on Oct 17, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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So much fun!

Description 

5.9+ hand jams lead up to thinning double cracks. When the crack runs out, keep climbing the face with no bolts.


Location 

This crack shares anchors with Flakes of Wrath but starts to the left of it.


Protection 

Cams. No bolts. Anchors at top.



Photos of Flakes of Wrath Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Working out the upper moves to Flakes of Wrath direct.
Working out the upper moves to Flakes of Wrath dir...
Isaiah jamming Flakes of Wrath Direct
Isaiah jamming Flakes of Wrath Direct
Getting off the deck on Direct.
Getting off the deck on Direct.
Comments on Flakes of Wrath Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob C.
From: Freeport, ME
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R

I top roped this; very strenuous and awesome jams!

By steven sadler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 27, 2011

TR'd this route a couple of times. The 5.9+ big hands crack is pretty stiff. It's a funny angle so it's pretty strenuous. When i did it this last time someone had placed a bolt on the face but it's been removed. That section is run out but it would be a safe fall and that little runout section makes the climb way more fun and interesting. No need for a bolt there. Thanks to whoever removed it.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 13, 2011

I thought about leading this onsight but decided to just do the normal start and TR it. Glad we did it that way. The fall would be safe, assuming that your gear holds... then again it's all behind a rather thin (1") flake so I'd stack up quite a bit at the end of the crack if you go for it.

By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

Lead this one! A #4 Camelot protects well just under the green aliens stacked in the flake that probably won't hold a fall (especially the one your gonna take if you blow the boulder problem!)

By Goat
From: Boulder
Dec 2, 2012

I agree that this route should not include a bolt after the flake. However, when somebody takes a large enough whip on that flake, it may go, and the route will be forever changed. Maybe a bolt would save the route? Food for thought. I loved it without the bolt.

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R

Nest of small cams before the boulder problem should keep you off the ground. Pretty Awesome.