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 ADVANCED
Test Pilots Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Backdoor Man T,S 
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 
Flakes of Bake T 
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 
Focus T,S 
Gimme three steps... T,S 
Kennedy Space Port T 
Kosmonauts T,S 
Rocket Science T 
Space Monkey T,S 
Test Pilots S 
Weight and Balance Check T,S 

Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Keith Reynolds, Buddy Brasington 1991
Season: Spring/Fall
Page Views: 1,192
Submitted By: Phoffmann on Apr 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Me at the sporty flexi flake start

Description 

Climb a line of four or five bolts past steep, incut flakes to a stance above a fixed pin. Climb up the left facing arch past good but hard to place gear and pull the lip (crux) of the arch to a stance below a steep, featured headwall. Get tricky gear (nuts) and blast up and right for the top of the cliff. Belay or lower from a cable thread thru. Edge is sharp in spots.


Location 

This route is on the back side of the Test Pilots Buttress. Approach from either Cereal Butress or Screamweaver Area. Rap the route.


Protection 

QDs and singles up to #2 camalots
Four of five bolts and a pin
This route is like a trad route on top of a sport route.



Photos of Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) Slideshow Add Photo
Me plugging the crux gear
Me plugging the crux gear
Comments on Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) Add Comment
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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 21, 2011

Great route. Watch for the expando flakes when placing gear between the bolts.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Sep 16, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route for sure! I'd give it 4 stars if the rock was just a little better. None of the moves are harder than 10+, but with pump factor, maybe 11a is reasonable. Definitely not 11b as the guide suggests...