|Test Pilots Buttress
This is an easier companion to Flakes of Wrath. This area stays shaded all day, so it is a good warm day option. There are two distinct cruxes, one at the base and one up high (tricky gear). It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt for the bouldery sequence at the start.
Start below a 4-bolt mixed line. The climb starts at good edges and moves up to an odd shaped right facing flake. The line follows additional flakes to the top with some great rests to place gear and contemplate the next series of moves. Fun route and a great warmup to Flakes.
Watch for expanding flakes and loose holds. Exiting right after the last bolt would be dangerous as it is full of large loose holds.
20' left of Flakes of Wrath behind the Test Pilots buttress. Walk across the top to a pile of stacked boulders with SS cable for the rap. 60m rope mandatory for the rap.
Single rack, tri-cams and nuts are always handy. Make sure the rock is solid for gear. 4 bolts and a few runners. Belay at a pine tree left of the climb.
Eric at the sustained crux
Eric at the bouldery start
BETA PHOTO: Jeremy Frock working out the bouldery start.
BETA PHOTO: A red tricam sinks in pretty well between the 2nd ...
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 22, 2011
The route gets a PG13 for the easy section between second and third bolt. Not many good options for gear since the rock is questionable.
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013
Very fun climbing on sometimes questionable rock. Worthwhile route overall. There is a pretty good hand sized cam in the middle section that seems like fairly solid rock.
From: Hendersonville, NC
Feb 17, 2013
Fun route. A grey (00) TCU protects the tall right handed move just before the last bolt.
|By Ray Buchanan|
May 19, 2013
can you guys tell me the name of the huge crack to the left of this route and the ratting?