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 ADVANCED
Test Pilots Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Backdoor Man T,S 
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 
Flakes of Bake T 
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 
Focus T,S 
Gimme three steps... T,S 
Kennedy Space Port T 
Kosmonauts T,S 
Rocket Science T 
Space Monkey T,S 
Test Pilots S 
Weight and Balance Check T,S 

Flakes of Bake 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Whitney Huermann, Jeff Burton
Season: Fall-Spring, Warm Winter
Page Views: 463
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Feb 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Jeremy Frock clipping the second bold.

Description 

This is an easier companion to Flakes of Wrath. This area stays shaded all day, so it is a good warm day option. There are two distinct cruxes, one at the base and one up high (tricky gear). It is recommended to stick clip the first bolt for the bouldery sequence at the start.

Start below a 4-bolt mixed line. The climb starts at good edges and moves up to an odd shaped right facing flake. The line follows additional flakes to the top with some great rests to place gear and contemplate the next series of moves. Fun route and a great warmup to Flakes.

Watch for expanding flakes and loose holds. Exiting right after the last bolt would be dangerous as it is full of large loose holds.

Location 

20' left of Flakes of Wrath behind the Test Pilots buttress. Walk across the top to a pile of stacked boulders with SS cable for the rap. 60m rope mandatory for the rap.

Protection 

Single rack, tri-cams and nuts are always handy. Make sure the rock is solid for gear. 4 bolts and a few runners. Belay at a pine tree left of the climb.


Photos of Flakes of Bake Slideshow Add Photo
Eric at the sustained crux
Eric at the sustained crux
Eric at the bouldery start
Eric at the bouldery start
Jeremy Frock working out the bouldery start.
BETA PHOTO: Jeremy Frock working out the bouldery start.
A red tricam sinks in pretty well between the 2nd and 3rd bolt.
BETA PHOTO: A red tricam sinks in pretty well between the 2nd ...

Comments on Flakes of Bake Add Comment
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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 22, 2011

The route gets a PG13 for the easy section between second and third bolt. Not many good options for gear since the rock is questionable.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jan 7, 2013

Very fun climbing on sometimes questionable rock. Worthwhile route overall. There is a pretty good hand sized cam in the middle section that seems like fairly solid rock.
By photocodo
From: Hendersonville, NC
Feb 17, 2013

Fun route. A grey (00) TCU protects the tall right handed move just before the last bolt.
By Ray Buchanan
May 19, 2013

can you guys tell me the name of the huge crack to the left of this route and the ratting?