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Walk past the huge, south facing Hide-A-Way Chimney (5.5) heading to the right. The first crack as you head around the corner is Flake, and it starts in a bit of a chimney. You start in a crack on the left and then 25 feet up you move to a crack on the right and continue to the top.
A standard awkward Vedauwoo crack that is interesting and sustained. Grind up the semi-chimney, move into a big crack, then move from this crack to your right into another crack. The crux is moving from the L crack into the R.
The top moves push you out onto the face, which I found got my attention immediately. I also found a 00 TCU helpful at the top. "One of the best pitches of 5.8 at Vedauwoo" Heel and Toe.
Cams up to 4.5 and medium / bigger stoppers; doubles on bigger cams. Bolted anchors on top; rap with a 60 meter rope. A #5 cam will protect the OW, but is not necessary.
Me comtemplating how to get into the flake
Now contemplating throwing my left leg over and pu...
Rappelling off Flake.
Apr 18, 2005
A very engaging and worthwhile route. Big time exposure during the final moves.
|By Emily Gresham|
Jun 27, 2005
Has some spicy moves getting into the second off width about half way up, and if you don't mind a little exposure this climb is a lot of fun. Very nice ending.
|By Rob Dillon|
From: '81 Sunrader
May 3, 2006
Any bets on when this thing's coming off?
|By Brian Story|
Apr 24, 2007
This is a great route. Crux seems to be moving from one flake to the other about half way up. Topping out is a little tricky. Probably a little hard, or at least awkward, for the grade.
|By Tyler Smeenk|
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Rob, depends on how many people jam their bodies/gear/rope into it, doing the hug-crawl at upper portion with their full weight on it, but I will bet sometime in 09 it comes down. Actually it was a fun, if not awkward route, well worth doing while it is still there.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 16, 2007
I'm seeing a pattern... 5.8s are hard here. The more I climb at Vedauwoo, the stronger I feel everywhere else!!
Jun 4, 2012
The best 5.8 non-offwidth I've ever done at Vedauwoo!
A suggestion for leaders: Make sure your rope is on the outside of the flake (left) during the last 12-15 feet of climbing. If you clip your gear short here and let the rope be inside the flake, a fall at the top could cut your rope on the edge of the flake.