Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Holy Saturday
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Flake T 
Hideaway Chimney T 
It's OK to Be Humbled T 
Sorority Girl T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Flake 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,264
Submitted By: pete cogan on Sep 20, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Now contemplating throwing my left leg over and pu...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Walk past the huge, south facing Hideaway Chimney (5.5) heading to the right. The first crack as you head around the corner is Flake, and it starts in a bit of a chimney. You start in a crack on the left and then 25 feet up you move to a crack on the right and continue to the top.

This is a standard, awkward Vedauwoo crack that is interesting and sustained. Grind up the semi-chimney, move into a big crack, then move from this crack to your right into another crack. The crux is moving from the left crack into the right.

The top moves push you out onto the face, which I found got my attention immediately. I also found a 00 TCU helpful at the top. "One of the best pitches of 5.8 at Vedauwoo", Heel and Toe.

Protection 

Cams up to 4.5 and medium / bigger stoppers; doubles on bigger cams. There are bolted anchors on top; rap with a 60 meter rope. A #5 cam will protect the OW, but it is not necessary.


Photos of Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Where'd he go? Mike getting an onsight and a few new owies on Flake.
Where'd he go? Mike getting an onsight and a few n...
Me comtemplating how to get into the flake.
Me comtemplating how to get into the flake.
Rappelling off Flake.
Rappelling off Flake.

Comments on Flake Add Comment
Show which comments
By nolteboy
Apr 18, 2005

A very engaging and worthwhile route. Big time exposure during the final moves.
By Emily Gresham
Jun 27, 2005

Has some spicy moves getting into the second off width about half way up, and if you don't mind a little exposure this climb is a lot of fun. Very nice ending.
By Rob Dillon
May 3, 2006

Any bets on when this thing's coming off?
By Brian Story
Apr 24, 2007

This is a great route. Crux seems to be moving from one flake to the other about half way up. Topping out is a little tricky. Probably a little hard, or at least awkward, for the grade.
By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Rob, depends on how many people jam their bodies/gear/rope into it, doing the hug-crawl at upper portion with their full weight on it, but I will bet sometime in 09 it comes down. Actually it was a fun, if not awkward route, well worth doing while it is still there.
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 16, 2007

I'm seeing a pattern... 5.8s are hard here. The more I climb at Vedauwoo, the stronger I feel everywhere else!!
By Patrik
Jun 4, 2012

The best 5.8 non-offwidth I've ever done at Vedauwoo!
A suggestion for leaders: Make sure your rope is on the outside of the flake (left) during the last 12-15 feet of climbing. If you clip your gear short here and let the rope be inside the flake, a fall at the top could cut your rope on the edge of the flake.
By bart cubrich 1
Aug 10, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The thing hasn't come off as of this posting, but it looks like one good pry with a crowbar could take it off.