Flake 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | pete cogan on Sep 20, 2003 |
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Where'd he go? Mike getting an onsight and a few n...
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Description Walk past the huge, south facing Hide-A-Way Chimney (5.5) heading to the right. The first crack as you head around the corner is Flake, and it starts in a bit of a chimney. You start in a crack on the left and then 25 feet up you move to a crack on the right and continue to the top.
A standard awkward Vedauwoo crack that is interesting and sustained. Grind up the semi-chimney, move into a big crack, then move from this crack to your right into another crack. The crux is moving from the L crack into the R.
The top moves push you out onto the face, which I found got my attention immediately. I also found a 00 TCU helpful at the top. "One of the best pitches of 5.8 at Vedauwoo" Heel and Toe.
Protection Cams up to 4.5 and medium / bigger stoppers; doubles on bigger cams. Bolted anchors on top; rap with a 60 meter rope. A #5 cam will protect the OW, but is not necessary.
Me comtemplating how to get into the flake
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Now contemplating throwing my left leg over and pu...
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Rappelling off Flake.
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By nolteboy
Apr 18, 2005
| A very engaging and worthwhile route. Big time exposure during the final moves. |
By Emily Gresham
Jun 27, 2005
| Has some spicy moves getting into the second off width about half way up, and if you don't mind a little exposure this climb is a lot of fun. Very nice ending. |
By Rob Dillon
From: '81 Sunrader
May 3, 2006
| Any bets on when this thing's coming off? |
By Brian Story
Apr 24, 2007
| This is a great route. Crux seems to be moving from one flake to the other about half way up. Topping out is a little tricky. Probably a little hard, or at least awkward, for the grade. |
By Tyler Smeenk
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+
| Rob, depends on how many people jam their bodies/gear/rope into it, doing the hug-crawl at upper portion with their full weight on it, but I will bet sometime in 09 it comes down. Actually it was a fun, if not awkward route, well worth doing while it is still there. |
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 16, 2007
| I'm seeing a pattern... 5.8s are hard here. The more I climb at Vedauwoo, the stronger I feel everywhere else!! |
By Patrik
Jun 4, 2012
| The best 5.8 non-offwidth I've ever done at Vedauwoo!
A suggestion for leaders: Make sure your rope is on the outside of the flake (left) during the last 12-15 feet of climbing. If you clip your gear short here and let the rope be inside the flake, a fall at the top could cut your rope on the edge of the flake. |
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