Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Who knows, man. Who knows.
Page Views: 1,347 total · 10/month
Shared By: TacoDelRio on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This is the line I took on what I can only assume is the FA of the South Tower at Crystal Lake Crag. The rock is bad, worse than most CLC stuff, but it's cool if you solo it, since you won't be killing anyone but yourself if you bring stuff down.

I suggest TR soloing it, and the 'protection' section reflects the gear I used.

The route starts on the left side of the base of the tower. I went left onto the face where the rock got better, and then stemmed across the face onto a small hold (removed most of it). About 5.8-9ish there. Moved up and got under the FLAKE OF ETERNAL PERIL. Moved left and up the face next to it. Face steepens to headwall here. Moved right onto top of ramp (which is top of the FOEP), VERY CAREFULLY since there are some decent sized blocks just sitting in there. Careful moves up onto headwall, which then eases to low 5th class to anchor.

Walk off.

Location Suggest change

South Tower is the prominent tower on the left half of CLC when you view it from the dirt road.

To get there, I prefer to hike on the trail that takes you to the summit of Islip. Use a map and find where you need to get off the trail to go to the top of CLC. You'd want to head sorta right when you're up there to reach the top of the South Tower.

OR, you could hike to the base of it. Same approach as per other climbs, but hike further south when you reach the base of the crag. You have to find it. There's no fancy signage or trails.

Protection Suggest change

-Standard rack of C4's to #3
-Fatty rope for the rough edges and such
-Cord or other anchor bits

Photos

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