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Flake Fest 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,532
Submitted By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Apr 7, 2013

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Mid way up Flake Fest

New access to Allenspur climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fantastic route that goes up one of the most classic flakes and splitters out at Allenspur. All bolted due to the flakes somewhat delicate nature. No individual move is that difficult but it is one of the more sustained routes out here. Go send it!

Location 

If taking the lower approach this is the climb that will be at the end of the trail.

Protection 

Bolts to 3 bolt anchor


Photos of Flake Fest Slideshow Add Photo
1 - French Connection 5.10a 2 - Flake Fest 5.10b
BETA PHOTO: 1 - French Connection 5.10a 2 - Flake Fest 5.10b

Comments on Flake Fest Add Comment
Show which comments
By Wade Watts
Jun 22, 2015

CONDITION REPORT 
I'm not sure if this is old news or not but I was warming up on this the other day (6/19/2015) and noticed a pretty good size block is rattling around, looking like it wants blow soon. Its maybe a foot or two above the 6th bolt I think (pretty much right in the climber's crotch in the photo posted by Eric Enquist). The obvious beta for that spot makes you weight it pretty heavily.

watch yourself there, it'd be a huge bummer if someone got domed or pulled off the wall with that thing. its definitely bigger than a helmet could ever protect you against.
By Josh Kornish
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 26, 2013

By no means an unreasonable trad line. Gear is good but spaced in a few areas. Fixed a nut at the 3rd bolt.

If on gear a rack to 3" is sufficient
By Ty Morrison-Heath
From: Bozeman, MT
Dec 15, 2013

I think the reason it was bolted was to protect the somewhat delicate nature of the flake. If you fall and pull the flake down there are going to be several angry locals after your head for ruining one of the best climbs in the area.
By Josh Kornish
From: Eugene, OR
Dec 22, 2013

certainly an interesting ethical debate. Using natural gear on a sport climb. Yet I agree that there is one placement within the 'somewhat delicate' flake. My apologize for fixing an eyesore but I am by no means the first person to do these lines on gear.
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Jan 2, 2014

...but quite possibly the first to spray about it!
By Josh Kornish
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 14, 2014

Nick Stayner - If this route was not safe on gear then yes i would be guilty of 'spraying'.

Fact is this is Montana and if reasonable gear is present then there shouldn't be a bolt. This has been a major facet of Montana climbing ethics since the beginning of climbing in our great state. Certainly these ethics are being more and more ignored as our sport grows in popularity. By no means am I against clipping bolts, just not pointless bolts.

When I first saw this line I didn't understand why it was bolted to the extent it is. Commenting that this route goes on gear is not 'spraying'; it's simply adding information to the data base.

As a person who usually contributes positively to Mountain Project I find your comment to be in poor taste.

Again I do apologize for the stuck nut. That is an eyesore and worse than a bolt. Next time I'm back in this area I'll try my best to remove it as cleanly as possible.

Cheers
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Might be my favorite sport climb in Montana at the moment. Just well-spaced enough on the bolting to get the heart going, and while sustained there isn't a non-positive hold on the whole thing.
By Beau Skelton
From: Palm Desert, UT
May 21, 2015

Truly awesome route. Surprisingly sturdy flakes all around. Have fun fighting the foot jams and enjoying the view all the way up. I would do this route every time I'm in the area just for the kick.
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