Flailing in the breeze
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|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10c/d [details]|
|FA: ||Nathan Brown, Phil York|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||nbrown on Nov 16, 2007|
This route climbs the white face up and left of "Nuclear arms". It has recently been upgraded with a bolt protecting the starting moves instead of the tree.
P-1 Climb "Nuclear arms" up to the lower rap tree and belay.
P-2 Start above the tree on the ramp and clip a low bolt (the original line used to climb up the tree and sling the top for pro and then step back down to the face holds out right). Crank long moves on good holds up and left to easier climbing and the second bolt. Move up and slightly right, continuing up the thin face past 3 more bolts, interspersed with a couple small pieces of gear (5.10ish). There is a 2 bolt anchor for the belay (100' back to rap tree, which is 100' to ground).
P-3 continue up the face above (not the bolt out right, which is another option) wandering around to get gear, eventually ending up on the large ledge with the 2 nut rap anchor of "Sugaree". This is a worthwhile 5.8 pitch with an unknown FA history. It is right at 100' to get back to the bolt anchor.
Start either in "Nuclear arms", or skip this pitch by climbing the 4th class ramp to the belay/rap tree. This ramp starts out just to the right of the start for "Flapping in the breeze".
Cams up to yellow TCU. A few small RP's for above the last bolt.
|Comments on Flailing in the breeze
|By Jeff Mekolites|
From: HOTlanta, GA
Mar 10, 2010
Damn it. I saw this route while looking for Sugaree and wasn't sure what it was...have to go back it do it another time.
Feb 1, 2012
I did this one soon after it was equipped. Great edging. The only piece of gear, other than draws, was a yellow TCU.