Flags of Our Fathers 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Kent Lugbill & Greg Hand 11/3/06 & 12/15/06 & 3/14/2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Greg Hand on Nov 3, 2006 |
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Raising the flag on Iwo Jima.
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Description Pitch1: Walk right from Where's Ray along a ledge to a yellow/orange lichen corner. Place a green Alien, and traverse right and up on easy rock to the first bolt. Place a blue Alien before the 2nd bolt and clip three more bolts as the rock gets steeper. Crux at last bolt. Fun climbing on small positive edges. Pitch2: (12/15/2006) Face climb up past 2 bolts and follow easy climbing to a 3rd bolt (crux). Small wire may be placed and climb up and left to 4th bolt and anchors above. May be climbed as 1 pitch. Pitch3: (3/14/2007) When doing the 3rd pitch, you should belay at the 2nd belay of the Bihedral Arete. Climb just right of the belay (red Alien and small wire to protect a hard start), then follow 6 bolts to the new anchor slightly higher (and more comfortable) than the anchor for the Bihedral Arete. Crux is at the last 2 bolts. My father lasted 19 days on Iwo Jima before being injured.
Location 20 feet right of Where's Ray.
Protection Pitch 1: Four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus green and blue Alien. Pitch 2: Four bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus small wires after 3rd bolt. Pitch 3: Red Alien plus small wire at the start, then 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. 60 meter rope easily gets you to the ground from the second anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Kent Lugbill leading Where's Ray.
| Thin 5.10 edging on the first pitch. Photo by Mik...
| BETA PHOTO: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...
| Approaching the crux on P1.
| BenJordan & me getting an ascent of Flags last yea...
| Just finishing up the first pitch of Flags of Our ...
| Just below the first pitch crux.
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| Comments on Flags of Our Fathers |
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By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Mar 19, 2007
| Got to lead the third pitch two days after it was put up. Thought it was a real nice pitch and certainly more than well worth doing. Echo Ron's words of good job to Greg and Kent. Have to admit though to wimping out a bit at the start and heading left for a bit. Somehow casting off into the unknown thin crack only protected by a small wire nut with the fall consequence being onto the anchor, it didn't seem like a good idea at the time, but next time! |
By tooTALLtim From: Boulder, CO Apr 16, 2007
| Great way to end Bihedral Arete if you didn't bring pro! |
By Jake Wyatt From: Longmont, CO Apr 30, 2007
| This is a nice climb with distinct and varied cruxes on each of the three pitches. |
By Ivan Rezucha From: Boulder, CO Jan 5, 2008
| I had to get out today after not climbing outside for 5 weeks. I self-belayed this just beating the rain. I did it as one pitch at about 200' with a few feet to spare. The distance is not accurate, because I was using my shortened 70m which is approximately but not exactly 60m. The P1 crux took me a long time. Tried to the right, straight up, to the left. Repeat. I eventually climbed to the right of the bolts. There is one hard move on each of P2 and P3, with the P3 move right off the ledge. |
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Feb 4, 2013
| Climbed today and only placed gear on the first pitch. Gear could be placed starting the third pitch, but it is not absolutely necessary. |
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