Fixing a hole  5.5

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Bradley White and Takuya Yoshida New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Apr 5, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

The quartz wall finish. Beginning is a little chal...

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Description 

From tree ledge move right and up past block to get to next ledge right. Climb the flaring corner into the large ceiling. Under the ceiling (wedged red rock should be left for ambiance) there is a move right via the slab to return up the flaring corner. Step right at the top of the corner onto dirt below quartz extrusion. there are two loose rocks in the dirt (they'll be relocated on my next trip up it). This is a good belay spot. Higher from here I encountered tremendous rope drag. Climb up the quartz block (covered in pine needles) past a small pine tree. Forced Belay at the larger pine tree up from it. Climb the dirt ramp right with trees up right to clean easy but (5.5) at the start (20ft) no pro quartz wall. Top of wall has some hollow quartz spots that would make for some hopeful pro. Is it really worth the trouble? Tip toe through the quartz and belay close to the Crow's Nest trail.
This climb personally is a newest favorite because of it's similarity to 'Hole in the wall'. The final wall pictured here as been climbed longer than 30 years ago. After more ascents the rating of the lower corner may change. 'Hole in the wall' hasn't become an often climbed route.

Location 

Start is the same place as Rocket Science.

Protection 

Stoppers and hexes might not work in some places even though the placement looks good because the rock will crumble during a fall. Friends and cams would be way better. Lots of gear placements and lots of ways to acquire rope drag from those gear placements.