fixe chains breaking and cracks
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from the DAV ... what to look for and how they fail at ~5-6 KN use yr google translate-fu alpenverein.de/bergsport/si… warning sheet from fixe ... alpenverein.de/chameleon/pu… note to fixe ... get your act together ... yr alien cams simply come apart ;) |
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bearbreeder wrote:from the DAV ... what to look for and how they fail at ~5-6 KN use yr google translate-fu alpenverein.de/bergsport/si… warning sheet from fixe ... alpenverein.de/chameleon/pu… note to fixe ... get your act together ... yr alien cams simply come apart ;)These were outdoors right? The article said they were located in "a DAV climbing center with a discharge operation on the outer wall.".... |
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i suspect they were on an outdoor wall somewhere by the beer garden |
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what are these? 304? 316? |
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Tony B wrote:what are these? 304? 316? Check out the corrosion... think that one over. I bet they are 304, and costal.its 304 ... it doesnt say what city its in (quite a bit of germany isnt coastal) ... but then its basically in an urban setting (outside wall of a climbing gym) ... and they were found in other gyms as well interestingly enough the DAV claims it only affects the "manual welded" stainless steel chain (the one connecting to the hanger) if i understand correctly it doesnt seem to affect the glavanized steel version either ... see here alpenverein.de/chameleon/pu… ;) |
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bearbreeder wrote: it doesnt seem to affect the glavanized steel version either ... see here alpenverein.de/chameleon/pu… ;)SCC typically does not seem to affect mild steel often. It's mostly an issue with stainless steel and to a much less degree, aluminum. |
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This FIXE chain anchor broke in Puerto Rico yesterday under bodyweight. Luckily it wasn't the climber's only connection to the route. Looks like the exact same issue in a very corrosive environment: |
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Eli Helmuth wrote: ...under bodyweight. Luckily it wasn't the climber's only connection to the route.^^^ That will start your heart racing! Makes you really think about redundancy and checking the gear over as well as you can. The imperfections and/or faults to look for can be so subtle that they could easily be overlooked by one in a hurry, not paying attention from being tired, or using the gear at night. bearbreeder's top picture shows a chain link with an obvious crack, and one that could most likely be noticed fairly quickly. Look at the second picture and this crack is not as apparent - easy to miss I would think. |
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Wouldn't a total failure of a chin link require TWO breaks? A single crack would leave the link intact, albeit no longer a closed oval. And while I can't prove it, I've got to believe that a 5/16" chain link has an open-loop strength far greater than body weight. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:Wouldn't a total failure of a chin link require TWO breaks? A single crack would leave the link intact, albeit no longer a closed oval. And while I can't prove it, I've got to believe that a 5/16" chain link has an open-loop strength far greater than body weight.But you are assuming that the problem in a link only effects one area of the link, as opposed to an intrinsic problem. Thunder only happens when it's raining. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:Wouldn't a total failure of a chin link require TWO breaks? A single crack would leave the link intact, albeit no longer a closed oval. And while I can't prove it, I've got to believe that a 5/16" chain link has an open-loop strength far greater than body weight.Yes that is correct, although the crack could form right at the top or bottom of the chain. Also, a crack could form on both sides of the chain. |
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Hi, |
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Where is the response from FIXE on this? No recall...no response (other than the PDF linked above)...still selling the same gear currently with no mention of why they have deemed the instances noted above as isolated or why they think their current batches are safe. |
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We saw the same thing as the OP's photo on a Fixe chain in the Coliseum a few years back. Someone saw the crack at the link weld and removed it before anyone (potentially) got hurt. Same product as far as I can tell the chain link directly on the hanger. |
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Gunkiemike wrote:Wouldn't a total failure of a chin link require TWO breaks? A single crack would leave the link intact, albeit no longer a closed oval. And while I can't prove it, I've got to believe that a 5/16" chain link has an open-loop strength far greater than body weight.The original warning from the German Distributor (Handelsagentur Friedering e.K) issued on 27th July shows a chain link broken in two parts, beside the weld and at the start of the opposite bend. |
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WarthogARJ wrote:Hi, Thanks for posting the photo of the break in Puerto Rico. Do you know exactly where the chain link failed? Was it near the weld, or not? You've got a ring plus six chain links in your hand. I'm assuming the break was on link seven, right? Or was it on a ring that attached it to the hanger? It's useful to now, because I THINK that the chain is made by a different company, and then the rings are welded onto the chain. The rings attach it to the hanger at one end, or you clip onto the other. Thanks! Alan Jarvis UIAAHi Alan, This was from a friend's facebook post in Puerto Rico. Here is the link: facebook.com/photo.php?fbid… Let me know if I can be of further service. The climber's name is Ely Bonivi Cheers, Eli |
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I don't want to suggest that any of the failure aren't original Fixe work. Consider that it's possible a route setter welded on his own chain onto standard fixe hangers instead of buying the factory built one. I can't imagine why, as it seems to more trouble than the cost, but you never know. |
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No, Fixe is saying that these are their welds and they're breaking. No one else is doing these welds and please read the technical report (translate in google is easy) to see what they're talking about. |
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I always thought the Fixe anchors with chains directly attached to the hangers by weld rather than quicklinks were bad designs (mostly because you had to replace the whole contraption if the wear point needed replacement) Glad I never used them. |
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Hi Eli, |
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Fixe/Techrock finally posted an reply several days ago: techrock.es/en/news/stress-… |