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 ADVANCED
Lamb Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chute Me T 
Five Ten, You Wuss T 
Ground Effects S,TR 
Jailbreak Finish T 
Little Sheba Continuation T 
Little Sheeba T,TR 
On the Lamb T 
Silent Shout S 
Tectonomagmatic T 

Five Ten, You Wuss 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, Bryan Law, George Ridgley
Page Views: 377
Submitted By: Hamik Mukelyan on Aug 25, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A new slab/face route on the far left side of Lamb Dome. This climb can be used as a more interesting approach to On the Lamb. Go to the left side of Lamb Dome and identify a right-facing corner; this is Dukey Corner (10a R), and our climb is left of it. Identify two black water streaks. Five Ten, You Wuss goes up the right one. P1 is 10c, p2 is 5.8, and p3 is 10a.

Protection 

There are 7 bolts on the first pitch, atop which there is a two-bolt anchor with rings. The next pitch has one bolt and goes up a shallow, right-facing corner. It's a very short pitch. Go left at a ledge at the top of the dihedral and belay on gear. The third pitch had 7 or 8 bolts and had a two-bolt anchor with rings. One more short pitch from the end of the third takes you to On the Lamb.


Comments on Five Ten, You Wuss Add Comment
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By Greg Barnes
Aug 27, 2012

What did you think on the rating?

The reason I ask is that last year someone told me that they'd broken a key knob up high and found it to be 5.11 with the knob missing.
By Hamik Mukelyan
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 9, 2012

I think the rating was fair for Tuolumne slab climbing. Besides, the title says it's 5.10! :-)
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jun 27, 2015

I was pretty sure we were on the third pitch of Five Ten, You Wuss, after climbing Tectonomagmtic. Where I had issue was: Following the topo in the 2nd edition Super Topo book shows that after you climb past the line of bolts up the face you go straight up to the loose block at the base of the right facing corner. Instead, I found that you need to traverse 20-25 feet to the right after the last bolt on the face to find that corner.
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