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Five Ten stonelands
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By Mattberr
From utah
Mar 8, 2013
uintas
fiveten.com/products/footwear-...

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Mar 8, 2013
I stopped by Wilson's this week and handled the Velcro and slipper. They seem a lot like the Anasazi in stiffness and shape. Not really sure what the point is in these "new" shoes. Of course they didn't have my size so maybe they'll fit better than Anasazis.

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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Mar 9, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
How did the sizing compare to Anasazi's? I'm planning to order a pair in the next week or so.

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By Larry S
Mar 9, 2013
The wife and I road-trippin on the Connie.
Rob Lilley wrote:
How did the sizing compare to Anasazi's? I'm planning to order a pair in the next week or so.


I'm a 11.5 in anasazi's, which are very tight in the toes and across the slingshot at my Achilles, but have some deadspace in the heel. In these i was trying a 12 which had much less dead space in the heel and was more comfortable (but still fit well). I wouldn't buy myself a pair of these in 11.5, but could probably fit in that size very tight like my anasazi's if i had to. So my advice based on a sample size of 1 is probably half a size bigger.

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By jim.dangle
Mar 16, 2013
Anyone tried these yet? Reviews?

Jim

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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Mar 16, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
I've got a pair on order but it'll be a while before I get my hands on them, maybe this time next week before I can give any initial impressions.

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By Stealthy
Apr 4, 2013
Hey everyone, just want to chime in here on the Stonelands. The lined leather uppers are Softer than the cowdura used on Anasazi but the lining (soft cotton) helps resist stretching.

The last is all new and unique to the group. New toe box shape keeps feet happier by allowing more room for the outside of the foot, think no knuckled toes when jamming :) and a more anatomical big toe position for comfortable performance while edging. The last is also built more flat like the foot shape than cylindrical like most lasts. The arch is narrower, and the heel pod lower volume overall, with less slingshot tension than the Anasazi.

As for climbing I've climbed in the Vcs model most. The Vcs I used in the gym and on steep granite at Index. Very comfy good performance and versatile. Still would choose Anasazi for super techy.

I have used the slipper up at Tahquitz and as far as simple and secure, The slipper is the shit... Like a beloved MOCC but a bit stiffer under the toes and no need to aggressively down size to accommodate for stretch. Great crack shoe, fun for smearing md edging, and pretty darn comfy for longer stuff.

I found that fitting my street shoe size was nice and snug, and since I'm not jamming my feet in a super tight shoe, I subsequently haven't seen much stretch at all thanks to the lining...they have softened in all the right spots giving me a nice broken in, yet no slop fit.

C4 rubber, good rand shape for jamming, and a great price. The fit is all new for those familiar to five ten shoes, and any other shoes for that matter. I'd try them on if you can and you'll see what I mean.

Hope this helps.

Kevin

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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Apr 5, 2013
Wow Kevin,

Thanks for the unbiased review!

I think im going with tenayas though.

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By Stealthy
Apr 5, 2013
No problem. Can't comment on tenayas, but hope they fit and climb well for you.

For clarity sake, I sell Five Ten shoes and have worked for the company for 6 years. I have climbed for 20 plus years in many different brands, and prefer the way five ten fit my feet and how they climb on my feet. The information I provided was truth for me. Asking others how they like shoes will get you opinions. All feet and climbing experiences are different. Like I mentioned if folks are interested try them on. If I need to say something negative to have a unbiased review, I'm not a fan of the doo-doo brown color on the slipper, and could do without the western theme stitching.

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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Apr 6, 2013
Stealthy, how is the toe for 1" cracks compared to discontinued supermoccs?

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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Apr 6, 2013
Ben Hicks wrote:
Stealthy, how is the toe for 1" cracks compared to discontinued supermoccs?


I'd like to know that too

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By Stealthy
Apr 7, 2013
stonelands vs. supermocc for jamming 1" cracks

supermoccs were made to excel at thin cracks and all climbing requiring ultimate foot flexibility, sensitivity, and "feel". they had thinner outsoles, thinner rands, and a unique toe shape combined with stretchable unlined leather uppers that by design allowed them to get sticky rubber wrapped toes into cracks very well.

talking about toe box shape for thin cracks, the stonelands last shape allows the foot to stay more flat, less knuckled into the toe box following more the shape of the foot. i find that for all hand and smaller sized cracks, i'm better off with minimal to no knuckling of the toes, especially the outside toes as they are the ones that get cranked and torqued into cracks. the stonelands do a great job of keeping the outside toes flat due to the shape of the last. the rubber is C4 and the thickness is not as thin as the mystique rubber used on supermoccs, but a versatile thickness for overall performance and value ( longer lasting)

It really comes down to how the shoes feel on your feet. If you fit the StoneLANDS well, then your outside toes should feel like they are lying pretty flat which will allow them to slide into thinner cracks

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By notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Apr 7, 2013
thanks!

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By mountainhick
From Black Hawk, CO
Apr 7, 2013
OK, Thanks, I'll have to get a firsthand look at them. More sole is a good thing in my book as my first pair of supermoccs blew out on the bottom of the sole under the big toe with only a couple thousand feet of crack climbing. And, I am no thrasher, I have good footwork. The rands still looked completely new and the edges had minimal wear. I thought it was pretty stupid design that the sole thickness under the toe was 1 mm or less.

Agree, flat toes are way better for crack!

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By Mattberr
From utah
Apr 7, 2013
uintas
How would you size the stonelands for long multi pitch crack climbing? should I go down a half size or just stay with my street shoe size?? I don't want my toes to be curled but I also don't want them to be baggy...

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By Stealthy
Apr 7, 2013
hey ben, i know what you mean about the 1mm outsole. thin outsoles do create loads of feeling, slim profile for thin crack and the ability to grab with your toes. the trade-off can be that less material will simply not last as long as thicker harder rubber.i found that to be true while climbing sometimes sharp highly textured granite in thin rubber outsoles.

Mattberr,

the stonelands fit me tighter than the same size in anasazi. i'm a 12 street shoe, typically wear anasazi verde and VCS in 11.5. for the climbing you describe i would suggest street shoe size, but you will know when you put them on your feet. i believe they should fit you snug but comfy with minimal dead space and ideally flatter toes to make crack work more enjoyable. the lined nature of the uppers, and especially the lined synthetic of the lace-up will help prevent any bagginess over time. the leather will breathe better than synthetic and by nature could stretch more if fit very tight

in my stonelands size 12 (street shoe size), i have a very slighlty bent big toe and flat toes for the rest. the arch sucks right up, and the heel pod is filled nicely. the slingshot tension is secure but not aggressive and i dont have any hot spots or pressure points. for me, if im not choosing moccasyms for long routes, then the fit i get on street shoe sized stonelands is pretty ideal. other shoes i like for all-day multi-pitch crack and face are the coyote vcs and the hueco.

have fun on those long days out and hope you find a great fitting shoe!


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By Immo
Apr 8, 2013
Hi Guys.

I'm a new user from South Africa and am in need of some advice.

I am aware that the sizing question is an ongoing one, but I really need a definitive answer.

I want to get the Stonelands laces shipped over to me in Cape Town (They are not available in SA) primarily for multipitch trad and sport climbing. Now, because I can't go to a store to try them on, I need to make sure I order the right size. I wear an Anasazi VCS in size UK8, but I bought them too small. Well that said my feet are different sizes. My left foot is unbearably painfull, where as my right foot is super snug. I can't handle more than 1 pitch in them(I originally bought them for bouldering). I tried on a friends pair of Anasazi Verdes on in a size UK9 yesterday, on my smaller foot and they seemed ok.

Please advise whether I should go for a UK8.5 of UK9.

Help would be much appreciated.

Immo

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By Stealthy
Apr 8, 2013
immo,

i find that the stonelands lace fit a bit more snug than a similar sized anasazi. the lace-up will not stretch much at all being that its a lined synthetic, similar to all anasazi except moccasym ( unlined leather uppers), and anasazi high top (lined leather).

i wear a size 12 street shoe, 11.5 in verde, 12 in stonelands lace.

i like my shoes snug, but not painful, and because i like to jam cracks and climb long routes, i stay away from crapped, knuckled toes for the shoes that i use for cracks and face.

i'm not sure how tight you need your shoes to be, or what your measured foot size ( street shoe size), but please take into account that the shoes in question will not stretch out much, and that from my experience, the street shoe size was a great, no-slop secure fit. ideal for all-day climbs, long technical pitches, and the shape of the toe box helps to keep toes flat for jamming prowess and comfort.

hope this helps, and happy sending in SA!

Kevin

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By Immo
Apr 9, 2013
Thanks Kevin.

Thats exactly what I needed to hear. Size UK9 it is!

Immo

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 9, 2013
El Chorro
Why does Charles Cole think he's being so revolutionary? John Bachar made soft lace-ups and stiff(isn) slippers for years with Acopa. Scarpa and La Sportiva have also had soft lace ups and stiffer velcro and slipper options. The Pres. states that "no one has offered a line like this before" but to me it seems like it's Five Ten that has been backwards for so many years, not the entire industry.

Anyways, I know plenty of people love the Mocasym for cracks and all day trad but for me they are too soft. I need something more supportive for crack climbing. But being able to take the shoes off easily at belays is nice - so I welcome the change. I just don't think it's some big advancement.

I think Five Ten has screwed up their line the last few years by trying to offer so many different shoes that all seem very similar. They should stick to 5-10 models - you can cover the entire range of what people want/need with that many models.

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By tks
From Boston, MA
Apr 10, 2013
Ryan Williams wrote:
Why does Charles Cole think he's being so revolutionary? John Bachar made soft lace-ups and stiff(isn) slippers for years with Acopa. Scarpa and La Sportiva have also had soft lace ups and stiffer velcro and slipper options. The Pres. states that "no one has offered a line like this before" but to me it seems like it's Five Ten that has been backwards for so many years, not the entire industry. Anyways, I know plenty of people love the Mocasym for cracks and all day trad but for me they are too soft. I need something more supportive for crack climbing. But being able to take the shoes off easily at belays is nice - so I welcome the change. I just don't think it's some big advancement. I think Five Ten has screwed up their line the last few years by trying to offer so many different shoes that all seem very similar. They should stick to 5-10 models - you can cover the entire range of what people want/need with that many models.


Hey Ryan, did you ever settle on a good shoe to replace the Acopas?

I think you were looking for something to replace the Aztecs and the Merlins?

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By Mattberr
From utah
Apr 10, 2013
uintas
Thanks Stealthy

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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Apr 11, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.
I've been wearing a pair of the Stonelands VCS for a few weeks now and so far I have been quite impressed with them. I usually wear Miura laces or velcro but picked these up as a more comfortable option for long routes. I've mainly been climbing indoors up to 5.12 in them but I also took them bouldering at Rumbling Bald intending to just use them for warm ups before breaking out the tight fitting "big guns", I ended up wearing them all day long. I pulled out my Miura's once but put them back in my bag again after one attempt.

I found the VCS to be fairly soft compared to the Anasazi or Miura last, outside edging is superb but the inside is pretty poor and tends to roll off even moderately small edges. Smearing on the other hand is excellent, there's tons of surface contact with the rock thanks to the flat toebox and the soft rubber moulds to any dimple/protrusion.

The Anasazi heel doesn't fit my foot shape AT ALL, the Stonelands' is better but still not perfect, there's some deadspace along the underside for me, in action it feels pretty solid and secure though.

I picked up the Stonelands in a size 8, the same as my street shoe and they are a snug but comfortable fit. I normally wear a 7 in Anasazi's for reference.

I would highly recommend the Stonelands VCS for slabby to vertical face climbing and long multi-pitch routes, comfort is definitely the name of the game here but it is still a solid performer on anything less than overhanging terrain.

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By Kirk Hutchinson
Apr 11, 2013
I wear a size 8 street shoe. I tried two pair of VCS on last night in a size 7 and 7.5. I agree that the heel deadspace was less than my moccasyms but still there was some. Also it felt as though my heel just wanted to pop out. On the wall the edged great and I really liked the stiffness. However I felt the smearing was terrible- much worse than my TC Pros.. I don't know why I just can't find 5.10s that work well for me, bc I really want them to. Think I'm going to have to pass on these for some Muira laces.

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Apr 11, 2013
El Chorro
tks wrote:
Hey Ryan, did you ever settle on a good shoe to replace the Acopas? I think you were looking for something to replace the Aztecs and the Merlins?


Right now I'm bouldering and sport climbing in the Ra from Tenaya. Awesome shoes. Will probably continue to try Tenaya in different models. They are different than the Merlin though, as they are a bit narrower and a bit stiffer. Nearly too narrow for me, as are most Euro made shoes. They are also lined so they only stretch a quarter of a size or so, while the Merlin stretched so much that it became a different shoe after a few months.

That said, I still have a pair of new Merlins that I have not yet worn. I bought them smaller than my first pair, so I'm curious to see how they climb after they have broken in enough to not be painful.

I have a few different sizes of Five Ten Galileos that I use, depending on what kind of climbing I'm doing. I liked the Aztecs because of the sticky rubber, but the Galileo has always fit be better than pretty much every other shoe in the world. They are still my best all around shoe.

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