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 ADVANCED
Rincon - Center Route & R
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Another Pipeline Bonecrusher T,S 
Briggs variation to Rincon T 
Camouflage S 
Center Route T 
Concentric T 
Counterstroke T 
Five-Eight Crack T,TR 
Five-Ten Crack T 
Front Side Lip Smack T 
Green Room, The T 
Killing Fields, The T 
Mind Over Matter T,TR 
Neato T,TR 
On the Crest T 
Outer Limbits T,TR 
Point Break T,S 
Raccoon Soup aka Thunderbolts T,TR 
Rincon T 
Rincon Dink T 
Rincon Light T 
Rinodina T 
Spicoli S 
Toprope Left of Spicoli TR 
Warp Riders T 

Five-Ten Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Roger and Bill Briggs, 1973
Page Views: 3,807
Submitted By: Joe Keyser on Jan 8, 2001

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Nice climb on a sunny day.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This thin crack starts about 20 feet right of Rincon . The crack opens up periodically just about right for gear placements. The crux is pulling over a small roof with a reachy finger jam and no really good feet. Continue up on a nice finger crack.

To descend, traverse right to the tree and rap.


Protection 

Wired nuts, TCUs, and a few larger cams.



Photos of Five-Ten Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Pulling rope to clip gear after the crux.
Pulling rope to clip gear after the crux.
BETA PHOTO
Crux move as shown by the expression on my face.
Crux move as shown by the expression on my face.
Bryan pulling the crux with cold fingers.
Bryan pulling the crux with cold fingers.
Brannon Jones on Five-Ten Crack.
Brannon Jones on Five-Ten Crack.
Rocking over the lip.
Rocking over the lip.
Dave leads Five-Ten Crack on a c-c-cold morning in Eldo.
Dave leads Five-Ten Crack on a c-c-cold morning in...
Toughing it out, and sewing it up, in January.
Toughing it out, and sewing it up, in January.
Aaron on 5-10 crack.
Aaron on 5-10 crack.
Me just above the crux of the route in the wider crack.
Me just above the crux of the route in the wider c...
Pulling through the crux on a cold November morning.
Pulling through the crux on a cold November mornin...
Comments on Five-Ten Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Patrick Vernon
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 1, 2001

This is a short but very good climb, the protection is substanitially better than it appears from the base.

By Mike Sofranko
Jan 1, 2001

Great pitch, good first 10a lead. Easier than P1 of Rincon, IMO.

By Joe Keyser
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Aug 6, 2001

I [definitely] agree that this is easier than pitch one of Rincon (9+). Took a sizable whipper on Rincon,,, suppose I should have picked a more warmup like warmup to climb first! Clean fall though, just quite large...oops!

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Apr 29, 2002

This is an excellent 1 pitch 5.10. Very fun technical moves. I led this one and felt it was easier that the p1 of Rincon, which I followed. Oh well, it is all good stuff. If you don't want detailed beta then skip the rest of this comment. You don't need any cams larger than a #3 Friend, and you really only need one of those. Otherwise nothing larger than a .75 Camalot. You will need a lot of smaller stuff, especially small nuts or RPs. For the section before the crux I had 3 small/tiny wires and a blue Alien, but at the crux you can hang off the finger lock and place an excellent cam above your head for the move. Sorry to spray beta but a first time 5.10 leader could get spooked and might end up testing the wire strength of the tiny nuts. Almost 3 stars if it was longer. Casey Bernal

By Joe Collins
Apr 21, 2003

Just a suggestion, but this route, Racoon Soup, and five-eight crack all share the same anchor- an eight foot tall tree, six inches in diameter. This 'anchor' sees a lot of use, especially of the TR variety which is particularly hard on anchors. The tree can be backed up with a #1 Camalot or two in the crack behind, or by placing some nuts above Raccoon Soup or Five-ten crack. But even with the backup (and it seems many people don't even do this), the tree is still taking the weight in the vast majority of TR situations. A better solution would be to use a gear TR anchor, then rap off the tree when finished... no one ever does this though.

So I was curious what people thought about the idea of a nice, beefy two-bolt anchor somewhere on the ledge system to serve as anchor for these three climbs. Not to mention that this would probably save the poor tree lots of wear and tear. These are among the most travelled climbs in the Rincon/West Ridge area, and the tree will probably pull someday.

By Lon Black
Apr 27, 2004

Nice climb in a area of awesome rock. I don't know if anyone would want beta for pro at the crux. If so, you can place a yellow Alien once you get your feet up and reach over the small roof.

By Kenneth Noisewater
From: San Diego
Sep 26, 2006

Fantastic route!
Good movement, good passive gear, interesting crux.
It could use some chain anchors for the TR, since that part of Rincon is the easier craggin' section. If you go WAY right to the 5.8 anchors, it is awkward for multiple parties.
Who wants to pull the trigger on that?

By Alex Vidal
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 9, 2014

Generally I consider myself to be very good with creative Eldo gear, especially passive gear. However, I thought this one was a bit hard to protect... certainly adequate but definitely not without a bit of spice. 2-3 marginal RP placements and a "reasonable" 0 Mastercam protected the crux moves.

Based on the other people's posts, perhaps I am wrong?

By slim
Administrator
Aug 11, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I remember this one being pretty well protected for 10a at Eldo, albeit with small gear. You have pretty decent stances, and you can place quite a few good small wires. Maybe go back up and do it again, you might be more relaxed and find more protection opportunities.